making my refuge

[jcegt87]

ok so im going to be making a 30 gallon sump refuge just wondering would this be a good setup

1)ok here is the top that came with my trickle filter would it be ok to just place on the nrefuge (it is the same width) in case your wondering its this thing right here

2)ok im not sure if i should leave the BB in here or not would it affect the refuge or just kill the concept

3)im thinking about putting mud, LR ,um im just gonna be using regular lighting that i have stored from my first 20 gallon right here too

4)here im thinking that both the return pump and skimmer will be going

so is this an ok setup or .......:pooh:

thanks:Cheers:

 

[reeffreak]

1)There's no problem using a cover on the sump or on part of the sump.
2)I would skip the bioballs altogether.BB can contribute to nitrate and fuge removes it.IMO,that defeats the purpose of a refugium.
3)Thats fine.
4)The skimmer really should be in the first chamber(area 2).That is where the water is the most raw.It will also give more time for the micro-bubbles from the skimmer to dissipate.

 

[jcegt87]

wouldnt it be loud just to have the water drip

 

[reeffreak]

Not if you use a filter sock or put the pipe underwater.

 

[Bifferwine]

For the first set of baffles, you only really need one piece. Just have the water flow over it. If you have a bubble trap before the return pump (like your drawing), you'll be fine. There's no need for two bubble traps.

Also, for the bubble trap, the piece where the water flows under should be 1 to 2 inches off the bottom of the tank. Yours looks like a lot more.

Make sure none of the baffles go to the very top of the sump. You need to leave enough space for extra water in case your power goes out.

 

[fatman]

As cheap as small glass aquariums are you would probably be better off selling the wet dry filter and making your own sump/refugium out of an all glass aquarium from some where like Walmart or such type of discount store. Trickle filters are still used by a lot of people with fish only tanks or even the freshwater aquarium keepers. As a lit refugium/sump the only thing that would probably be left intact of your old wet dry unit would be the bottom and outer walls and the lower larger bulkhead fitting. That would be a waste of a good probably readily salable system, which should sell for more than the cost of the new tank and glass needed to build a custom all glass refugium.

 

[ccCapt]

I see a potential problem if the pump is going in sect 4. That area looks very small and it is the area that the water level will drop for evaporation. The baffles will keep the water level constant in the other section. It seems like with some evaporation, you can have that section go dry and burn up the pump.

 

[bjohanson1234]

I agree about using a glass aquarium. I built a 10 gallon sump for 20 bucks. 10 for the tank, 7 for glass panes cut to dimensions and then a couple for some silicon.

Also I wish I had made the last section a couple inches wider like close to half the tank width. I have to top off every other day.

Brian

 

[jcegt87]

As cheap as small glass aquariums are you would probably be better off selling the wet dry filter and making your own sump/refugium out of an all glass aquarium from some where like Walmart or such type of discount store. Trickle filters are still used by a lot of people with fish only tanks or even the freshwater aquarium keepers. As a lit refugium/sump the only thing that would probably be left intact of your old wet dry unit would be the bottom and outer walls and the lower larger bulkhead fitting. That would be a waste of a good probably readily salable system, which should sell for more than the cost of the new tank and glass needed to build a custom all glass refugium.

well i have a spare 30 gallon that ima be using

 

[jcegt87]

i just finished siliconing my baffles (4 baffles, total under 15 bucks not bad including silicone)

anywho i was wondering after they are good and dry tommorow what should i add at the bottom sand or mud (kindda indecisive) also plants what do i need for plant to stay alive down their any low maintenance plants , or should i go with moss (or both) i will be adding some or my smaller pieces or LR from my DT to the refuge about 5lbs

anytoughts
ill prob post pics later

oh oh and i got 40 bucks credit with my LFS, took em some FW fish i didnt really want 2 parrot chiclids

im guessing it should be enough atleast to stock the refuge

 

[RyanG]

You should just need light, you can go cheapies here. You got $40 bucks for two parrots???????? How big were they? Musta been monsters!

 

[Bifferwine]

Go with a macroalgae called chaetomorpha for the fuge. And whether you use sand or mud is up to you.

 

[jcegt87]

You should just need light, you can go cheapies here. You got $40 bucks for two parrots???????? How big were they? Musta been monsters!

well yeah not exactly for just them 10 for each plus i took them back the blenny my poor gobe was so scred of em so i just took him back

so full credit for the blenny(20) and 2 chiclids (20)

and im gonna be usinf just some spare 10 gallon lights form my moms old setup (yeah she finnaly upgraded to my 30 lol)

 

[jcegt87]

Go with a macroalgae called chaetomorpha for the fuge. And whether you use sand or mud is up to you.

yeah i heard about chato wasnt sure what it was for thought thank you biff

 

[fatman]

I am partial to 5 to 6 inch deep sand beds of sugar grain sized (0.5 to 1 mm) oolitic aragonite. Chaetomorpha (Chaeto or Spaghetti) macro algae is most commonly grown as there are less problems with it coloring the water. I would recommend Chaeto if your going to run a light cycle opposite your display tank light cycle for control of pH and dissolved oxygen when the main tank lights go out at night. If you are mainly concerned with nutrient export through algae growth and pod and worm etc. growth then run your lights for 24 hours per day in your sump and grow a caulerpa algae instead as it takes up more nutrients as it puts on more mass in the same amount of time. The 24 hour light cycles eliminates its other problems.

 

[jcegt87]

could i add some cheato later into my fuge

also im still not decided
any benefits from using eighter sand or mud ( besides sand being WAY cheaper)

 

[bjohanson1234]

The sand is cheaper and will help buffer if you use aragonite sand. The mud will release some beneficial trace elements into the water. You could have the best of both worlds and split it and have two sections one with mud and one with sand. You can add the cheato any time.

Brian

 

[fatman]

The percentage of people using mud in comparison to sugar fine (0.2 to 0.5 mm in diameter) Oolitic Aragonite sand is very small. The Oolitic Aragonite sand will provide trace elements as will the mud. Any body that has had a deep sand bed for any length of time will tell you that it disappears at a rate of 10% to 15% per year. Neither will supply trace elements or dissolve at shallow depths, however the mud being a smaller grain size can be a thinner bed than the fine sand. Coarse Aragonite or calcium carbonate substrates will not supply trace elements or calcium. The mud supports a lot of life forms that are present in lagoons rather than on the reefs. Until more people start stating they have had good long term results with mud I would avoid it. Mud isn't really all that appropriate a name for the stuff being used in mud beds as it is still more mineral in content than organic. Mud is really partially decomposed organics, where as fine minerals are silt or clay. So basically your talking about a choice between fine and extremely fine Aragonite in general.