new lights for nano cube

shades251

Reefing newb
questions about lighting


is there such thing as to much light
what is a good rule for wattage for lights
just need some real general rules for lights
 
yes there difinitly is a such thing as too much light, what lights are you thinking about going with for the nano?
 
Hate to sound contradictive but I think I remember ccapt say that there is no such thing as too much light and that the PAR given off by the sun is by far greater than any light source would could use on our tanks. As a general rule I like to have at least 5 Watts per gallon of either Metal Halide or T5HO w/ individual reflectors for a full reef tank (keeping basically anything you want including SPS, Clams, and Anemones). That being said it always differs depending on the depth of your tank and which corals you want to keep.
 
I was told that the fixture I have on my tank was too much light. It's 2x250w MH and 4x54w T5 on my 75g.
 
I think the reason a light can be "too much" is more because of heat issues than light issues. It's really really hard to have too much light.

Here are some general rules for lights:

PC lights are on the low end for power and outdated technology, so avoid those if you can. T5s, metal halide and LEDs are all on the mid to high end and can support anything you want to keep, if you have enough of them.

4 watts per gallon is a good minimum to follow for T5s and metal halides -- but that varies depending on the type of light you have. Higher light corals, anemones and clams do better with 8 to 10 watts per gallon. It's a pretty outdated rule and not always accurate.
 
ok i know PCs suck ass but could i use them with like 12 watts per gallon bulbs and be ok with out to much work till i can get a MH?
 
Do you already have the PCs? If not, you're better off just doing a FOWLR tank until you get the money for MHs, instead of wasting your money on two fixtures
 
the factory nano hood has PCs and i dont have the 300 bucks for the upgrade lid with MH. i was just going to get a little more power full PC bulbs for now
 
Heres an article to better describe what im talking about.
Zooxanthellae Light Levels - zeovit.com



Hate to sound contradictive but I think I remember ccapt say that there is no such thing as too much light and that the PAR given off by the sun is by far greater than any light source would could use on our tanks. As a general rule I like to have at least 5 Watts per gallon of either Metal Halide or T5HO w/ individual reflectors for a full reef tank (keeping basically anything you want including SPS, Clams, and Anemones). That being said it always differs depending on the depth of your tank and which corals you want to keep.
 
Compensation Point is usually defined as the minimum amount of light required for oxygen production to meet the zooxanthellae/coral host respiratory requirements. Corals have the ability to absorb oxygen from the surrounding water (as they do in darkness); however, insufficient light energy may also result in low production of photosynthetic lipids. During periods of prolonged darkness (or inadequate light) zooxanthellae will then use their energy reserves until they are depleted and a sort of starvation occurs, usually resulting in irreversible damage or death. Compensation points vary from specimen to specimen and often depend upon their light history. Compensation points in low light adapted corals may be just a few µMols·m2·sec or much higher in high light adapted corals (350 µMols·m2·sec or ~17,500 lux; see Kirk, 1983). It should be understood that light intensity should exceed the zooxanthella’s compensation point.

Saturation Point Photosynthetic rates are proportional to light intensity only to a certain point. The Saturation Point has been met when photosynthesis is at a maximum, and increasing light will no longer increase the rate of photosynthesis. Saturation occurs when the photosynthesis electron transport systems are operating at full capacity. Exceeding the saturation point is pointless, and from a practical standpoint, results in needlessly high electric bills. If light energy greatly exceeds the saturation point, Photoinhibition may occur.

Photoinhibition is generally defined as any occurrence interrupting the normal electron flow in photosynthesis. There are two types of photoinhibition – dynamic and chronic. The first is chronic photoinhibition that involves irreversible damage to Photosystem II and were synthesis of new “photosynthetic proteins” must occur before normal photochemistry may resume (Brown et al, 1999). Dynamic photoinhibition involves reversible photochemical reactions that divert excess light energy away from Photosystem II through thermal dissipation. This “quenching” of photosynthesis involves reversible changes in xanthophylls diadinoxanthin and diatoxanthin. Dynamic photoinhibition protects the zooxanthellae (through absorption of violet through yellow-green wavelengths of 400-550 nm) from high levels of photosynthetically produced oxygen radicals, including hydrogen peroxide. Not all strains of zooxanthellae have the ability to produce xanthophylls and therefore may have little resistance to the effects of high light intensity.
 
ok guys im sorry i keep going on and on about this but im gettin alot of differant input from other people... you guys say 150 MH... other ppl say that is way to much i need more like 80 or 90 T5.... really stressing me out cause i dont know what way to go or what to do..... but i do know i need to decide real fast cause my old lid for the nano died in a power outage few days ago and now its toast so id rather get new then fix old and then get new.....among other things i am worried about the light heating my water up to much.....i am only growing lps and sps kinda intemidates me, so im not real sure about it yet....i dont wanna cook my fish or kill coral...please help guys
 
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