I took out the bio balls on my megaflow filter, also I have a hang on back overflow (which I don't like) . In the overflow it has a net with a filter pad on it. Should I keep that on or take it off? Then the first thing the water hits after that is another filter pad should I keep that in also? Does any of that effect the nitrate level?
nitrate level
- Thread starter mm16
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chuck78
The Reefanatic
Did you replace the bioballs with live rock? If not then you will most likely have an ammonia spike very soon depending on the size of your bioload. Oh, & to answer your question, Yes ! your current actions will lower your nitrates b/c bioballs do create ALOT of nitrates, but if you didn't trade the bioballs for another form of filtration....all you did was trade nitrates for AMMONIA!!
Northstar24
The Tang Herder
Yes, a water change dilutes the nitrates as soon as its performed, but due to waste excrement from things in your tank, it also starts increasing again pretty quickly, hence the need for regular water changes
chuck78
The Reefanatic
You may still have a small ammonia spike b/c when you removed the bios, you decreased the amount of nitrifying bacteria in the system. In short...your fish will still produce the same amount of waste/ammonia as usual, but now there is'nt as much bacteria to process the excess ammonia. I would still expect a small cycle to start if I were you. There's still the option of getting more live rock or buying some nitrifying bateria in a bottle (Bio-Spira) made by instant ocean. Good Luck!!
I have a 45 gallon tank with about 45 pounds of live rock, live sand, a protein skimmer for 75 gallons, 5 small fish (2 clown, 2 demsels, and one small blue tang), along with snails and crabs, and 2 shrimp. I have been doing a 10% water shange once a week. My levels are ph 8.2, amonia 0, nitrite o, and my nitrate is between 20 and 40. Any Ideas why I cant get my nitrate lower. I'm thinking it might be to many fish (but there all small) and from the local aquarium store said I could have more fish than I have now.
Thanks
Thanks
chuck78
The Reefanatic
You know I asked myself that same question about my nitrates which loom around 30-40ppm. All my friends (13ppl) & family (8ppl) that are in the hobby all seem to stay around 20-40ppm as well. When I had my 150, I did a 50 gallon water change every week & I still stayed @ 30ppm. I fed the tank 3 times a week & that was only what the fish could eat so I was going crazy about the nitrate problem. I think I found out what my problem was. My live rock came from 3 different sources. I got 50lbs from the fish store & about 230lbs from 2 different craigslist postings. I Think b/c I got most of my live rock from 2 looooong established aquariums that I have that nitrate & phosphate "build up" problem that comes from older aquariums so all I can do is accept this & keep up the big water changes in hopes that this "problem" will slowly leech itself out of my live rock.The bad thing about that is that I can't do real big water change as often as i want b/c It'll stress my fish & corals :( Do you know the origin of your live rock? hopefully, It did'nt come from a previous owner that neglected their tank.
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little_fish
Moderator
You could do soft corals, they like low levels of nitrates. But what are you using for substrate in your tank.
Also your tank is much too small for the blue tang. They need tanks in the 180 gal range. Having such a large fish in a small tank isnt helping the nitrate issue either.
Also your tank is much too small for the blue tang. They need tanks in the 180 gal range. Having such a large fish in a small tank isnt helping the nitrate issue either.
I have live sand for my subtrate. Should I have something different? As far as the blue tang, we plan on getting a 200 gallon tank over the summer so we thought it would be ok to have it in our tank while it is so small, and its only an 1.5 inches. Also I just got a nova light with 6 bulbs, that should be good for the corals, right?
little_fish
Moderator
That is a great light, but I dont agree with the tang be ok in the tank until you upgrade. Even the little ones seem to know the tank is too small and stress out and die. Plus I cant tell you how many times people say they are going to upgrade and never do.
Also what size sand are you using? crushed corals or fine sand?
Also what size sand are you using? crushed corals or fine sand?
little_fish
Moderator
You should always start your corals on the bottom of the tank and then slowly work them up to their permeant positions so they get acclimated to the lights.
And you should have the volume of your tank turned over at least 20x per hour. Closer to 40x per hour is even better. I think that will also help with your nitrate issue because then things can settle out of the water column to rot and release nitrates. Stuff will get removed when you do your water changes.
And you should have the volume of your tank turned over at least 20x per hour. Closer to 40x per hour is even better. I think that will also help with your nitrate issue because then things can settle out of the water column to rot and release nitrates. Stuff will get removed when you do your water changes.
chuck78
The Reefanatic
Yeah that should be ok for softies & some lps corals. I have lps & sps thriving & growing with my current nitrate levels so I think you'll be fine.
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