Parameters normal?

Bluespace

Reefing newb
My tank has been setup for 5 days. Just curious if these #'s look normal as I have no clue. Using API liquid reagents for everything but NO2 and PH. API strips for those. I'm thinking the strips are wrong but they may be in my head. The strips for swimming pools are worthless.


Gravity Ca2+ KH PH NO2 NO3 Amonia
1/28 1.023 420 107.4 8.5 0 0 0
1/29 1.023 420 107.4 8.5 0 0 4.0
1/30 1.023 420 107.4 8.0 1 20 8.0
1/31 1.023 420 107.4 8.0 3 20 8.0
2/1 1.023 420 107.4 8.0 3 20 8.0
2/2 1.023 420 107.4 8.0 5 30 8.0
 
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If it were me, I'd bring your salinity up-- slowly if you have any livestock-- to around 1.025.

calcium looks good. pH was high initially, now it's just right. the KH s just a bit low, but not a huge prob if you don't have coral yet-- and bringing up your salinity will fix that.

As for the nitrogenous tests (NO2, NO3, NH4) whta you're seeing is the cycle. THe bacteria haven't grown to catch up with the biological die off from your rocks. The first step after something dies is ammonia spike. you're seeing that now.Then, as the ammonia-eating bacteria colonize our rocks and such, they start eating the ammonia and turning it into nitrites. So then you see nitrites build up. Then, the nitrite- eating bacteria will also begin to grow, and then you get nitrates. Once all the ammonia and nitrite is gone, you can add your first animals.
 
just keep watching for the ammonia and nitrite to rise and try to keep the ammonia under1ppm by doing water changes it will make more things stay alive during the cycle
 
I should be doing water changes? It's possible to lower the ammonia to under 1ppm during the cycle? Sorry kinda lost, thought I had an understanding..:frustrat:
 
you can keep it lower by doing water changes. it is a myth that it will make you tank cycle slower. by doing water changes during the cycle it help so that the ammonia and other levels do not get so hi that it kills everything on your rock. check out tampa bay saltwater for their instructions on how to cure and cycle your tank
 
you can keep it lower by doing water changes. it is a myth that it will make you tank cycle slower. by doing water changes during the cycle it help so that the ammonia and other levels do not get so hi that it kills everything on your rock. check out tampa bay saltwater for their instructions on how to cure and cycle your tank
I read the article on the site, good info. But I don't have fully cured live rock it was shipped dry with wet newspaper.
 
I agree with all the above. ;)
Most live rock is shipped "dry" in wet newspaper. You will have die off, which is what fuels the cycle. Water changes are never a bad thing.

Also, don't waste the test kit reagents for alk (dKH) now. Your #'s will be jumping all over the place. Just watch amonia, nitrite and nitrate. I would bump the salinity up to around 35 ppt or 1.026 (natural seawater). Are you using a refractometer to measure salinity?
 
No I'm not using a refractometer yet. I have one on the way. I do have one I use for my saltwater pools but didn't think it would be a good idea to use one for my tank. Using a Hydormeter right now. Should I not touch the salinity till I get my refracto?
 
The refracto you have for saltwater pools will probably work fine. What does the scale measure? Does it show Specific Gravity, ppt or %?

Even the new refractometer you get should be calibrated with a 35 ppt calibration fluid. If you calibrate it with RO/DI water it will read a few ppt less than it actually is. Refractos are made to measure saltwater (saline solutions) not seawater...which is what we have in our tanks.
 
The one I have measures in ppt. My concern with the one I have is contamination from pools, don't want to risk it. I'm familiar with the calibration on these things I do mine monthly I use it so often.
 
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