Plumbing Questions

Picasso

Seahorse Whisperer
Ok, my new RO/DI is in! Now, I've got to hook this thing up. My instructions are telling me that I need a Carbide grinding burr. What the heck is that? Also, they are telling me that I've got to install the faucet first but since we don't have the cabinet set up yet, can I skip this part? I can do this myself or call a plumber, if I call a plumber then I can't order my seahorses yet. I'm doing this myself!

C
 
a carbide griding burr is not something the average home owner is gonna have...

if you can post pictures or a scan of the instructions, i'm sure we can figure it out together....

i dont even know which system, and or from where you got it..... details... need details
 
Sorry, Project, you're right. Ok, here's the details:

0ppm 6st Reverse Osmosis RO+DI+Tank+5Pcs Water Filter#ROH-6BT-5P
[ROH-6BT-5P] $153.00

It's from the P U R E W A T E R C L U B but when I try to get the exact link it doesn't go to this unit just the main page.

Here's where it's going:
4052998047_21282fd029.jpg


Here's under the sink:
4053738778_e9fd198da8.jpg



Here's the instructions where it mentions the carbide thing:
4053738674_eeb7e5db9e.jpg




Any more details? Thanks!

C
 
Last edited:
ok the water line in needs to be hooked to the water pipe somehow either by hooking to the facuet or by tapping the water line. the little blackring that you have goes on the drain and just take a drill bit that is just a bit smaller than the 1/4in hole and drill a hole in it but make shure you put it up high at least above the peatrap. and you can connect the waste line to that.
 
ok, i agree with D so far,but wheres teh rest of the parts and the instructions?

i'm thinking(hoping) that what you ordered came with the right parts... the easyest way to do this is to put a "T" inline on the cold side, under the sink, that is your supply, then, as d said, the drill is for the drain line, if your doing a perm install you can drill the drain pipe, and then the 3rd hose comming off your unit is the ro/di water output...
 
Ohhh boy, better get some taowels out and dont forget to shut the water main off coming into the house.
 
Like others have said, you will need to go to the hardware store and get a T to connect that to your cold water line. You will also need to buy a needle valve. One end of the T will go back up to your sink (as it was before), the other will be connected to the needle valve which will turn on and off the RODI unit.

Did it come with a needle valve? I seem to remember that mine did.
 
When you say needle valve is that the sadle valve thing with the self piercing needle??? If so I wouldn't recommend using those, they clog and leak. Best shut off the water and install a T with a nice ball valve to shut it off. Sadle valves are not up to code where I live, and must be installed by a plumber. Hate to see a flood and you can't shut things off. I shut down my whole house at the street and re did all the water mains coming into my house, stupid gate valve as a main was terrible, leaky mess tht wouldn't close completely, so I put in all ball valves and a whole house filter.
Here's what it looks like now, one take off goes to the fridge, the other to my r/o unit in the garage, that hits a floor drain. The sadle valve I had was a leaky/mineral clogged mess. Note the take offs coming off the hot side of the water heater, heated water has less minerals and calcium in it, and everything goes throught the whole-house filter first, with a bypass valve in there as well.

DSC_0067-1.jpg



The anchor is optional for good luck!!!!
 
No, by needle valve I mean the on/off "switch" that you control with a needle like handle.


Biff, if you read his destructions up ther you see under !, parts, also nimber one, it says bla bla "needle Valve".

I would recommend you install this in a closet with a small 1/4 copper line coming off that sinks hot side, with a small solder 3/8" T off the line going up to the faucet, after the vanity valve. Use 50/50 solder, bought from a supply house, Lowes can't sell the 50/50, too much lead, but for one joint, it's ok.
 
well we dont have all the information, so we cant be completely helpfull, we need pictures of all of the parts she has, and we still dont have that....

as for "what" the carbide burr is for, without reading the instructions, i would be willing to guess that they are going to want you to use that at some point in making the hole in the drain line.... but like i said, thats just a gues.
 
Help, OK, I think I've got everything pretty much worked out but here's my question: It says I need to flush my RO membrane for 15-20 mins because it's got a preservative on it. Does that mean put it in the sink and let tap water run through this or does it mean run the unit for 15-20 mins and throw that water out? Thanks, C
 
Help, OK, I think I've got everything pretty much worked out but here's my question: It says I need to flush my RO membrane for 15-20 mins because it's got a preservative on it. Does that mean put it in the sink and let tap water run through this or does it mean run the unit for 15-20 mins and throw that water out? Thanks, C


Assemble all of it and disposed of the water. They want you to run the water through the unit.
 
hook it all up and there is flush valve on one of the lines turn it to flush and let the water run for awhile if you rinse the fu=ilter outside the unit it will swell up and you will never fit it inside the unit
 
Ok, I've got the whole thing hooked up, Two problems. 1. It leaks at both the point where it connects to the water line and the waste water trap. 2. I don't have any of those filter things stuck inside the cups. I think I can fix the filter things in the cups but what do you do about leaks? It's as tight as I can get it and I've got these rubber things hooked up. In my level of Dante's Hell, I'm a plumber.

Catherine
 
Darn it, guess I'm calling a plumber. I've used nylon tape, washers and everything else I can find and the leaks are crazy. Guess my ponies will have to wait.

C
 
Back
Top