RO / DI advantages

BCReefer

pro stoner, newb reefer
So alot of locals around here say using tap water is fine and they've never had algae problems but I've been dealing with green coraline for too long now and want it to stop. I can't afford a RODI unit right now so I'm pursuing other options.

Its cheap to get huge jugs of RO water from the store. I was wondering if someone could explain why I need the DI, and how i could get that done cheaply.

Also, I'm planning on getting a lawnmower blenny at some point, mostly to help with the hair algae. Do they eat green coraline? Would be fantastic if he could keep both under control. I'm aware I'll probably need to feed him something extra, ill figure that out when the time comes.

Other possible factors:
-my lights are about 8 months old (216W T5 in 55 gal), I only have basic corals, so i can probly stretch a few more months of them.
-my protein skimmer is a cheapo ebay special, ive been thinking a new one is in the cards. would this affect green coraline growth if it didnt work perfectly?
-flow? i have an 800 GPH, skimmer pump (500GPH) and another smaller (100GPH or so) for a back corner slow spot.
-i only feed once a day, i pre-rinse and repackage, and the fish get pretty much all of it so i doubt phos is the issue. It always comes up close to 0. Nitrates are also pretty well 0.

So to summarize:
how essential is the DI? Could it be creating too much algae?
do lawnmowers eat green coraline (and hopefully not the purple)?

muchas gracias
 
How often do you do water changes? Also, just because the fish eat it all, its all gotta come back out. Phosphates can still be an issue. The algae eats it up faster than the tests can read it.

Lawnmower blennys can also be finicky when it comes to eating other than hair algae. Sometimes they will starve to death once all the hair algae is gone. Mine did when I used one to control hair algae. :(
 
Once a week, usually 5%, unless the chemicals are unusually bad, in which case i do 10.

I just tested phosphate again and i didnt see the faintest bit of colour (0). That makes sense, if the algae are starved for phos they'll take it as soon as they can get it.

Well he'll have a feast for the first while at least, I've given up trying to fight the hair algae by myself. West coast ocean shore crabs actually eat the stuff too, but nowhere near enough of it.
 
I've heard more than one tank owner form Vancouver say the tap water is TDS 10 but TDS does not measure chlorine. Let the water sit for 48 hours and chlorine will evaporate or you can add dechlorinator. A TDS tester is around $20 US. Test your water, if its TDS 10 you do NOT need a RO or DI unit.
 
Ah cool yes I use tap water conditioner/dechlorinater. Good to know, i'll keep up the RO since its cheap and post in a while if it makes a dif.
25% water change are you mad? corals would not be happy
 
Why would they be upset? Just match the salinity and temp. They will love the fresh clean water!!!!

Also, one 25% change will remove more nitrates than five 5% changes.
 
I do 50% changes all the time and my tank loves them BUT make sure the salinity and temp are matched pretty damn close.
 
Your source water will not affect coralline growth, its an unfortunate side effect of getting water parameters into a range where corals will grow. Coralline uses calcium and alkalinity like coral does

Only way to deal with it is it periodically scrape it off the glass of the tank. I believe some urchins will eat it, but I dont think its enough to actually act as a control mechanism
 
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