tank reflections...

tankedchemist

Reef enthusiast
Hello photogs,

I can't get a good picture of my tank. why? because most of the time, regardless of where I stand, other parts of my living room reflect on the glass. It's getting really obnoxious.

what should I do?
 
You're not using a flash right?
Sometimes with reflections, I'll have to try a SLIGHTLY different angel. This can often make the reflection disappear.
Still reflections? Photograph after the sun goes down, with all the lights off...only the tank light on.
 
Try using a uv filter on the camera lens, you can keep it on there for lens protection as well. Shoot with no lights on in the room, especially behind you. You can try to shoot at an angle to the galss, that should help.
 
Honestly you will away have some glare if you have ANY ambient light in the room. Really to get a clear FTS you need a completely BLACKED out room. Also how far back are you standing? If you stand further back and zoom in it will help not have a reflection of you or the camera in the pic. This is kind of a getto fabulous fix but get FLAT back poster board and have someone block reflection as you take different shots.
 
Tanked, you want a circular polarizing filter and try seattle's suggestions. We can also use Elements post shot to get rid of a lot of that glare.

c
 
No, no flash. :)
Ok the room wasn't totally black, and I was standing pretty close. got UV filters and polarizing filters for the camera now. I'll try some shots tonight after it's dark and see if that fixes it. Thanks everyone :)
 
Tanked, weren't you the one that had the fixed focal length lenses? If so, when you're shooting tonight try this exercise:

BEFORE you try your FTS:

1. Put your 10x lens on your camera manual focus and full auto exposure.
2. Leave the lights in your room on as your would normally have them, don't turn anything off or on for the shots.
3. Here's the hard one: If you don't have a lens hood, looks like this:
bower%20lens%20hood.jpg
kind of invent one using stiff fabric or a funnel like those things you put on a cat when they can't lick an injury or some thin cardboard, you just want something that light can't get through that you can rig onto your camera, I use my hands.
4. Without the hood on your lens, get really close to your tank. Figure out where the focus is for your lens and focus on something in your tank that won't move about, like a rock or coral. While your camera is there, look at the glass of your tank, do you see the glare on your glass? Put the hood on your camera and hold it back in the same spot, do you see the glare go away? Do it several times to notice the effect of the hood blocking the light.

5. Now, do the same thing on a bigger scale. Stand a few feet in front of your tank and look ONLY at the glass. Evaluate the light source of your glare.

6. Now, remove the glare. Turn off the lights in your room OR use a black piece of poster board, some cardboard or foam core to go between the light and the tank (this is called a gobo- go between, very technical)

By doing the exercise in miniature, it should help you figure out how to deal with your problem. You're going to have the exact same issues shooting tidal pools this weekend. The circular polarizing filter is very expensive but effective at scattering that light around to help you get a clear water surface. We can use Elements to reduce the effect IF the glare contains information. If it is completely whited out then you won't be able to get that information back. We can bring out the information that is there using Elements to even out your exposure. When you're out on the shore this weekend, wear dark clothing that won't be reflected in the water and try to bring a dark solid colored pillowcase or piece of fabric for someone to hold to help reduce the glare.

Ultimately you have to come to terms with shooting glass. You can enhance the effect of the glare for "artsy" looks or you can do your best to eliminate it.

C
 
I have two zoom lenses, but I have a macro filter that has a fixed focal length. I don't have any full lenses with fixed focal length.

I do have a camera hood, but it look like this:

Nikon HB-34 Lens Hood in Lens Caps and Hoods at JR.com

I was getting shadows on other shot (portraits) when I usedt hat, so I took it off. I can put it back on tho obviously.

also my circular polarizing filter wasn't that expensive-- $35 at shutterbug. did I get the wrong thing?
 
ok so the combo of a uv filter and circular polarizing filter seems to take the glare away almost completely even when the room is backlit.

but, I'm still having camera shake problems when I'm zoomed in. I guess I just do't have steady hands!
 
I have two zoom lenses, but I have a macro filter that has a fixed focal length. I don't have any full lenses with fixed focal length.

I do have a camera hood, but it look like this:

Nikon HB-34 Lens Hood in Lens Caps and Hoods at JR.com

I was getting shadows on other shot (portraits) when I usedt hat, so I took it off. I can put it back on tho obviously.

also my circular polarizing filter wasn't that expensive-- $35 at shutterbug. did I get the wrong thing?


Polarizing is for bright days to get those deep blue skies you see in pictures. The uv is to cut glare.
 
The lens hood is used to stop a glare from being created on your lens. I'm asking you to put it on your camera in a non-traditional use. By getting close to the tank with a macro lens (screw it on to your regular lens and use manual focus) anyway, by getting close to the tank like that and using the hood as a gobo then you are creating a miniature controllable situation that will help you debug the glare situation. Once you get the idea of how to fix a miniature problem then you've just got to do it bigger pull the hood off and make bigger gobos to act like the hood. The filter I would use if you're really fighting glare is the circular polarizing filter like this one: [ame=http://www.amazon.com/77mm-Circular-Polarizer-MRC-Filter/dp/B0000BZLAD/ref=sr_1_4?ie=UTF8&s=electronics&qid=1269648612&sr=1-4]Amazon.com: B+W 77mm Circular Polarizer MRC Filter: Electronics[/ame] it's overkill but it will get the job done. You're probably getting a similar effect by layering the two lenses.
 
With the polarizing filter you will loose 1 1/2 - 2 stops of light in most cases.If your pictures are shaky use a tripod or prop the camera on something steady.
 
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