bjohanson1234
.........
OK so yesterday, I needed to build a fuge since I had some Cheato on the way.
Went to the hardwarestore and did some shopping. Total cost was less than 20 dollars.
Material
1 - 3 gallon waste paper basket (I tried a 5 gallon one but it was just too big)
1 - 1" PVC to male thread electrical fitting
1 - 1" PVC to female thread electrical fitting
1 - 1" PVC 90
1 - 1/2" PVC to male thread electrical fitting
1 - 1/2" PVC to pipe thread electrical fitting
1 - 1/2" PVC female pipe thread coupling
1 - 1/2" PVC 90
1 - Nylon hose barb with 1/2" male threads
1 - clamp light with an 8 1/2" reflector
1 - Pack of CFL bulbs that are equivilent to 100 watts
Some 1/2" and 1" PVC pipe. (Had on hand)
Some nylon hose (Had on hand)
A small pump (Had on hand)
Some thing that will raise the lip of the can high enough so the water will pour into the sump. I used a 6" PVC sewer cap. But some 2x4s or anything else will work. You might not need it.
Sorry about not having pics duing the build. It didnt occur to write this up until after it was all built
1) Make sure the basket will fit where you need it. If it is too short, you will need to raise it up. I just set mine on the sewer cap.
2) Make a mark on the basket at the height of your sump. Your pipes need to be higher than this point so that they drain properly back into the sump.
3) With a hole saw, drill a 1-1/4" hole for the 1" pipe and a 7/8" hole for the 1/2" pipe. Above the line that you marked.
4) Take the 1" electrical fittings and prime the threaded ends (both male and female) with PVC primer. Put the male threads through the 1-1/4" hole. Put PVC glue on the threaded ends. Tighten the fittings together until they make good connection with the basket.
5) Repeat the same process with the 1/2" PVC fittings in the 7/8" hole.
6) Take the 1" 90 and glue in a piece of 1" pipe that will be long enough to reach from the basket to the sump. Then glue this piece into the outside of the basket with the 90 facing down.
7) Glue a piece of 1" pipe in to the 90 that is long enough to reach under the water in your sump. You have now completed the drain for your fuge.
8) On the inside of the basket, glue the 1/2" 90 pointing down. This will help keep water from spalshing around since the 90 will be under the surface of the water.
9) on the outside of the basket, glue the PVC female threaded coupler.
10) Either use some teflon tape or pipe dope and insert the hose barb fitting into the 1/2" coupler. You have now completed the water input part.
11) Take some silicon and seal around your home made bulk head fittings. Let it cure for 24 hours. The PVC should have made a good seal since it had all that glue on it, but it is easier to do this now than to try and do it after you get it up and running.
All that is left, is attaching the hose and pump to the fuge and hanging the light. I actually had to use tin snips to cut down the reflector a bit to get it to fit.
Just a note, I used electrical fittings because they have a straight thread and will tighten fully closed. Pipe threads are tapered and will actually tighten before they come all the way together. The PVC glue seals up the threads nicely but it does make it a permanent. If you think you will need to take this apart, use real bulkhead fittings.
Finished product
And the Cheato
Went to the hardwarestore and did some shopping. Total cost was less than 20 dollars.
Material
1 - 3 gallon waste paper basket (I tried a 5 gallon one but it was just too big)
1 - 1" PVC to male thread electrical fitting
1 - 1" PVC to female thread electrical fitting
1 - 1" PVC 90
1 - 1/2" PVC to male thread electrical fitting
1 - 1/2" PVC to pipe thread electrical fitting
1 - 1/2" PVC female pipe thread coupling
1 - 1/2" PVC 90
1 - Nylon hose barb with 1/2" male threads
1 - clamp light with an 8 1/2" reflector
1 - Pack of CFL bulbs that are equivilent to 100 watts
Some 1/2" and 1" PVC pipe. (Had on hand)
Some nylon hose (Had on hand)
A small pump (Had on hand)
Some thing that will raise the lip of the can high enough so the water will pour into the sump. I used a 6" PVC sewer cap. But some 2x4s or anything else will work. You might not need it.
Sorry about not having pics duing the build. It didnt occur to write this up until after it was all built
1) Make sure the basket will fit where you need it. If it is too short, you will need to raise it up. I just set mine on the sewer cap.
2) Make a mark on the basket at the height of your sump. Your pipes need to be higher than this point so that they drain properly back into the sump.
3) With a hole saw, drill a 1-1/4" hole for the 1" pipe and a 7/8" hole for the 1/2" pipe. Above the line that you marked.
4) Take the 1" electrical fittings and prime the threaded ends (both male and female) with PVC primer. Put the male threads through the 1-1/4" hole. Put PVC glue on the threaded ends. Tighten the fittings together until they make good connection with the basket.
5) Repeat the same process with the 1/2" PVC fittings in the 7/8" hole.
6) Take the 1" 90 and glue in a piece of 1" pipe that will be long enough to reach from the basket to the sump. Then glue this piece into the outside of the basket with the 90 facing down.
7) Glue a piece of 1" pipe in to the 90 that is long enough to reach under the water in your sump. You have now completed the drain for your fuge.
8) On the inside of the basket, glue the 1/2" 90 pointing down. This will help keep water from spalshing around since the 90 will be under the surface of the water.
9) on the outside of the basket, glue the PVC female threaded coupler.
10) Either use some teflon tape or pipe dope and insert the hose barb fitting into the 1/2" coupler. You have now completed the water input part.
11) Take some silicon and seal around your home made bulk head fittings. Let it cure for 24 hours. The PVC should have made a good seal since it had all that glue on it, but it is easier to do this now than to try and do it after you get it up and running.
All that is left, is attaching the hose and pump to the fuge and hanging the light. I actually had to use tin snips to cut down the reflector a bit to get it to fit.
Just a note, I used electrical fittings because they have a straight thread and will tighten fully closed. Pipe threads are tapered and will actually tighten before they come all the way together. The PVC glue seals up the threads nicely but it does make it a permanent. If you think you will need to take this apart, use real bulkhead fittings.
Finished product
And the Cheato
