Filter

gasman

Reefing newb
I just wanted to ask a question. To rase the oxygen level in the tank would a air stone in a power filter work. I have a hob power filter. I don't know how much oxygen is in the tank. Good top water movement with filter and skimmer and a powerhead in the center of tank ( middle level ). And can you have to much oxygen? Thanks for all help!!!
 
does your filter have a bio wheel? usually oxygen isnt a issue, unless your having trouble I wouldnt worry about it. usually just the splashing of the water from the back filter oxygenates the water
 
Before you jump into the questions of oxygen you 1st need to determine if you have an oxygen defficiency. There are tests kits available for that test. You should be near saturation at a reading of 7. check just before lights start to go out and just before lights come on. at night the oxygen producing plants etc. will start to use up the oxygen and the co2 will go up. Until you know what your morning and evening values are your question cannot be properly addressed. Also let us know why you are looking at oxygen levels, are you having some problems?.
 
Yes stil fighting the red slime algea. I have bought a bigger filter but have not put it on yet. Water is good pos 0 nit 0 nat 0 ammo 0 ph 8.6 dkh 13 cal. 230 ( trying to get cal up having a hard time with ph so high ).
 
I am trying to get a wide range of test kits and replace the soon to be outdated ones. They are kind of high for the best.
 
you really need to get that ph down and calcium up. as for the red slime have you tried chemi clean or red slime remover? are you doing good water changes? also good water changes regularly should buffer the ph and raise the calcium. how long are your lights running?
 
Sorry to hear you are still struggling with water parameters. you most definitely need to lower you ph to 8.2 or 8.3 and your dkh to apprx 9 or 10. once this is done your calcium should start to climb back up. if you are putting in buffers or additives that affect your ph, calcium, alkalinity you need to determine why you ph and dkh are so high, correct it and stop all additives until you have sone some substantial water changes for at least 3 or 4 weeks. hope something here helps. If you test and your oxygen levels are low, you can add air stones (beware of the salt creep and mess to clean up all the time with bubblers) or you can consider ozone addition. calcium is low because ph and alkalinity too high most likely. Maybe rereading the helpful articles on ph, alkalinity, calcium will be of some benefit. if you did and you are leaning to oxygen levels you will need to test for it 1st to see if it is really part of the problem. good luck. keep us posted.
 
Thanks John I have not added any ph affecting additives to my tank in a while. I read somewhere that you can lower the ph by adding carbonated water to the tank do you know anything about this. Is there anything else out there besides ph down.
 
Ok I wont repeat what we dicussed in chat but will share bottom line of my thoughts now that i understand you system a bit better. If you use mechanical filters it is very important to clean the filters weekly. Hobby test kits usually are not laboratory grade and will not read at the lower levels. it only takes .003 ppm phosphate to feed alga/cyno, and non detectable nitrate can be sufficient to feed the problem also. since your water is already made up you need to 1st check your tank water at the lfs to verify your test kits are good, then you need to test the makeup saltwater you are getting from the lfs to see where those parameters are at. now when you bring it home you need to put a small heater in the water and a small pump to keep it circulated and at tank temperature until you use it. a small air stone is useful also but not absolutely needed. You need to researh how the lfs mixes his/her salt and how long it is circulated and airated before you get it, also if the lfs is adding any buffers or reconstitution additives to the new salt water. fresh salt water should be mixed for about min. 24 hours to 48 hours and preferrably 72 hours for the salt to completely stablize and to bring up the oxegen levels. Im glad we had a chance to chat. george also had some right on suggestions to deal with your cyno. when you change out your bulbs you can put some light diffuser over the tank in several layers and remove one layer a week to acclimate the animals to the new lighting. once adjusted your can then extend the photoperiod. I run full on for max. 6 hours for metal halides, 8 hours for compacts, and 2 hrs both sides to ramp up and down. 6 hours of full on lighting should be enough if your wattage is sufficient. and ramp up for dawn and dusk an hour on each side. total 8 hrs a day. if corals do not respond well increase slighty until you fine the photoperiod length that best suits your animals. keep us posted.
 
Sounds like you need some frequent water changing. It will take your ph down raise your cal also what is your pho lvl??
 
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