RAYRAY
Tiny Tank Club A+ Member
Is this the right idea ?????
how does this look.....
- Thread starter RAYRAY
- Start date
cgoodman381
can i put whtever i want?
Looks good overall, but just a few observations.
Why not have both returns go to the skimmer area, then have a wall to your fuge, then the three baffles, then your return. Would be less baffles and less work...
Also why have a ball balve on your return pump? Unless your return is overpowered and you want to dim it down a little.
Why not have both returns go to the skimmer area, then have a wall to your fuge, then the three baffles, then your return. Would be less baffles and less work...
Also why have a ball balve on your return pump? Unless your return is overpowered and you want to dim it down a little.
dustin_P74
Reef enthusiast
i would have them drain into the skimmer then go into the fuge and then return
Rcpilot
Reef enthusiast
I think the reasoning behind the center return is so he can regulate the flow through the refugium.
With the ball valve to the refugium, the flow can be reduced and that will increase dwell time in the refugium. It just diverts more water to the skimmer section.
The ball valve on the return line is good practice. How will he replace the pump when it fails? The ball valve will prevent the tank from draining all over the floor in the event he disconnects it to replace/repair/clean the pump.
I like the idea of a central return. It's a couple more baffles. So? Another 3oz of silicone and 2hrs of your time on a DIY project isn't the end of the world.
With the ball valve to the refugium, the flow can be reduced and that will increase dwell time in the refugium. It just diverts more water to the skimmer section.
The ball valve on the return line is good practice. How will he replace the pump when it fails? The ball valve will prevent the tank from draining all over the floor in the event he disconnects it to replace/repair/clean the pump.
I like the idea of a central return. It's a couple more baffles. So? Another 3oz of silicone and 2hrs of your time on a DIY project isn't the end of the world.
yote
In Memoriam
I dont see a thing wrong with it Ray.Should work out great.
Got it built yet?
Got it built yet?
Oscarsdad608
Reef enthusiast
I have done it both ways and the center return works better. Make sure the return area is large enough, because that is the only place the water will evaporate. An auto top off is going to be a must have.
RAYRAY
Tiny Tank Club A+ Member
one more question. I'm not sure where the heater shouls go?? I wasw thinking the return area ? I have 2.... one for a back up ..
Hornet
Reefing newb
I think every thing looks good except for the baffles/bubble trap between the Fuge and return section. You should only need 1 baffle there as the flow through the fuge section will be slow and not generating bubbles.
I would plan on putting the heater in the return section.
I would plan on putting the heater in the return section.
ZOOT098
Reefing newb
just my 2 cents
i tried a setup like that and it didnt work very well
the problem is the water wants to drain almost completely into the first tee and the raw water going into the fuge really makes a mess
i think a very small pump in the return section with some flexible tube into the fuge would work better and you could control the flow better
also put a check valve in line with the return before the ball valve
and you can get rid of the ball valve in your drain line, it wont be needed
i tried a setup like that and it didnt work very well
the problem is the water wants to drain almost completely into the first tee and the raw water going into the fuge really makes a mess
i think a very small pump in the return section with some flexible tube into the fuge would work better and you could control the flow better
also put a check valve in line with the return before the ball valve
and you can get rid of the ball valve in your drain line, it wont be needed
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Hornet
Reefing newb
The ball valve needs to be moved to the span that drops directly to the skimmer section. It can then be adjusted to create a back flow to force water into the fuge.
RAYRAY
Tiny Tank Club A+ Member
Zoo...what do you mean really makes a mess ????? Dont quite understand?
ZOOT098
Reefing newb
when i did it i had a setup like hornet suggested
very similar to yours but with the ball valve for the drain below a wye connection and cut back, creating backflow to divert water to the fuge
problem was the raw water has suspended debris in it which settles on your rock and macroalgea thats in your fuge, creating a mess
i actually took my fuge out for the time being
you may be better off to run a small pump (35-40gph) from your return section, with a small piece of 1/2" tubing into your fuge then just let the water overflow back into the return section
you will be putting just as much water back into the return section as you are pumping out so it shouldnt be a problem and the water you are pumping into the fuge will have been skimmed first
heres what i mean, excuse my crude artwork
very similar to yours but with the ball valve for the drain below a wye connection and cut back, creating backflow to divert water to the fuge
problem was the raw water has suspended debris in it which settles on your rock and macroalgea thats in your fuge, creating a mess
i actually took my fuge out for the time being
you may be better off to run a small pump (35-40gph) from your return section, with a small piece of 1/2" tubing into your fuge then just let the water overflow back into the return section
you will be putting just as much water back into the return section as you are pumping out so it shouldnt be a problem and the water you are pumping into the fuge will have been skimmed first
heres what i mean, excuse my crude artwork
Attachments
RAYRAY
Tiny Tank Club A+ Member
THANKS ZOO, i SEE WHAT YOU MEAN. I THOUGHT I READ SOMEWHERE THAT YOU SHOULDN'T SKIM THE WATER GOING TO THE FUGE ?? THANKS FOR YOU INFORMATION!
daugherty
part time reefer
you want as much raw water as you can get but the skimmer will not get it all before the water get to the fuge.
the red is the return to the tank and the blue is the drain from the tank my skimmer is in the drain and the middle is the fuge
the red is the return to the tank and the blue is the drain from the tank my skimmer is in the drain and the middle is the fuge
cgoodman381
can i put whtever i want?
Is this how most peoples tank are set up? I just have anti siphon holes. :shrug:
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yote
In Memoriam
Thats all I got.Nothing mechanical to fail.Plus I keep the return nozzles just about 1/4" under the water surface,just in case.
ZOOT098
Reefing newb
cgoodman...the ball valve on the return line is to regulate the flow back to the display tank, mainly so you can restrict the flow if you are pumping more back to DT than you are draining
cgoodman381
can i put whtever i want?
Thats what I said originally. I was just curious about what RC had said. I dont know why anyone would only have a ball valve and have a chance of creating that reverse siphon.
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ZOOT098
Reefing newb
i must have misread it
some people have a hole drilled in their return line above the water level
it breaks the siphon if electric fails
of course you right, for the 3.00 that a check valve costs, why not have one
some people have a hole drilled in their return line above the water level
it breaks the siphon if electric fails
of course you right, for the 3.00 that a check valve costs, why not have one
RAYRAY
Tiny Tank Club A+ Member
OK....here is the beginning stages of the sump build
I finished the skimmer section and will let it dry then put the last divider in for the fuge section.
I will still build it with the middle section being the return but I will plumb the skimmer to put water from the skimmer section to the fuge section.
:^:
I finished the skimmer section and will let it dry then put the last divider in for the fuge section.
I will still build it with the middle section being the return but I will plumb the skimmer to put water from the skimmer section to the fuge section.
:^:
