measuring and regulating o2

saltwatergirl

Reefing newb
I have an evaporation problem where I am losing about 1.5 gal per day in evaporation. It was suggested on this forum that I should cover the tanks. I am willing to do this but... I realize that I will lose o2 due to the loss of open surface are on the tanks. Is there a way to measure and regulate the o2 level in the system so I can add o2 if neccessary? Becasue if I cover my 92 gal corner and the 65 gal refugium but not the sump will I get enough o2 for the fish and the reef with the reduced surface area?:question:
 
I believe you will still get good gas exchange leaving only the sump open.Personally,I would leave the main display open and have a cover for the sump and refugium.They do sell devices to check O2 levels but boy are they expensive.I believe around $250 the last time I checked.

I lose well over 2 gal. a day in evaporation even with a cover over the sump and refugium...not the display though.Is it the amount of water that bothers you or is it causing your pumps to run dry or low?With that much volume,maybe an ATO is something you should look into if you don't have one already.
 
I lose about a gallon and a half a day also.
And I agree with Reef and Biff.A good ATO would be your best bet.
 
I have an evaporation problem where I am losing about 1.5 gal per day in evaporation. It was suggested on this forum that I should cover the tanks. I am willing to do this but... I realize that I will lose o2 due to the loss of open surface are on the tanks. Is there a way to measure and regulate the o2 level in the system so I can add o2 if neccessary? Becasue if I cover my 92 gal corner and the 65 gal refugium but not the sump will I get enough o2 for the fish and the reef with the reduced surface area?:question:
I am surprised that some one on this site recommended you put a glass cover on your tank. It is a seldom recommended on any reef forum site as usually the surface area of the average display tank is much larger than surface area of the area display tanks sump. The surface air exchange system is important for carbon dioxide/oxygen exchange and for gases produced by denitrification which can occur within live rock and sand beds with some depth. However low oxygen levels are usually not a problem of oxygen exchange as much as other problems. Auto top offs can run from as little as $20 to up to $300. Typically the reagent dissolved oxygen tests are not as accurate as an electric monitor, but are good for spot checks when changing your systems operations and only average about 50 or 60 cents per test, versus $250 or more for an electronic monitor.
 
Fatman the glass top was only advocated here because the 92, 65 and 29 gallon tanks are all conected and she was having major evaporation problem, it was only recommended for the sump tank and refugium tank, not the main display.
 
Fatman the glass top was only advocated here because the 92, 65 and 29 gallon tanks are all conected and she was having major evaporation problem, it was only recommended for the sump tank and refugium tank, not the main display.

Oh, I sit corrected. :shock:
 
What is the issue if the main tank and the refugium are covered? Theh water from the return has a 5in fall into the water of the sumo tank. Meaning that the return pipe stands above the water level of the sump. I would think that that would be enough to oxiginate the water or so I think. Please correct me if I am wrong.
 
Not unless the water is being run over slats or something or sprayed out of the pipe in a fan pattern. The best oxygenaters you have are photo synthesis by corals, macro and micro algae, followed by your skimmer contribution, then your water/air interface of large surface areas with constant movement. Your smallest contributer is that 5 inch fall of water into the sump tank. You are getting nearly no oxygen/carbon dioxide exchange with lids on the tank and sump at the water/ air interface. If your talking about the water running into a compartment then overflowing a divider wall like a weir then that would make some difference but still a lot less than a large area open to the atmosphere or saturated with very small air bubbles as in a long retention skimmer, where the water and bubbles are typically running past each other at least twice. Plus you still have to deal with the ammonia gas and methane gas and other gases caused by organic breakdown in your display tank that needed to be vented from the top of your tank.
 
Hello Fatman, you mentioned "the surface air exchange system is important for carbon dioxide/oxygen exchange and for gases produced by denitrification which can occur within live rock and sand beds with some depth. However low oxygen levels are usually not a problem of oxygen exchange as much as other problems". What would some of the other problems be? I have a 92 gallon corner tank with a glass top going on about 2 years now; I have two powerheads with decent water movement and surface agitation. I have LR , 8 fish, about 35 corals, normal evaporation issues, everything is doing great as far as I can tell. I test my tank every two weeks and do 10-15% water change weekly, water parameters are good. Just wondering if my surface agitation provides sufficient gas exchange even though the tank is covered?

Thanks for your input. MLK
 
A reef tank with photosynthesis which is going on while the lights are on is a major contributor to the levels of oxygen in a reef tank. Normally dissolved oxygen levels are good during the day because of this contribution of oxygen by coral, Live rocks coraline algae and its other possible photosynthesis life forms, micro algae and macro algae if present. These things also remove carbon dioxide as part of this process. A tanks biological filtration system and fish use the oxygen of course and release carbon dioxide. Then there are the other gases released by break down of organics. The major problem lies in that the dissolved oxygen levels drop significantly shortly after the main tank light are turned off and the levels stay down until after the lights go back on. No amount of circulation or agitation of the air water exchange area corrects this. Immediate results are however seen when macro alga is grown in an attached refugium or sump with lighting run opposite of the main tanks lights. The amount of oxygen exchange going on at a tanks surface does not require a lot of air movement, nor does a lot of air movement or water agitation increase the oxygen levels significantly over that provide by some water movement. Of course there should be air gaps for exchange of air between inside and outside of a glass covered tank, however the extent of how much is dependent on whether you also have a sump and or a skimmer. A skimmer in general will increase the oxygen level in your tanks water more than the tanks surface exchange will provide. You still must vent out gases that collect above your tank though. Lots of oxygen is needed by a reef tanks biological filtrations bacteria. There is such a thing as what is called a "bacterial oxygen demand." That is a measurement of how much oxygen is required to break down the organic compounds in a sample of water. In the waste water treatment world a facility is required by the EPA and the states environmental agencies to limit the BOD (bacterial oxygen demand) to certain levels or less before discharging it into lakes, rivers, streams the ocean. The aquarium trade runs a little backward in that it tests the waters ability to handle a BOD without knowing what the BOD level is. The aquarium industry does this through the use of ORP monitors. I can tell you that more information about your tanks system, such as is there: a sump, skimmer, refugium, macro algae, coraline algae would be needed to make any opinion about your tanks oxygen levels anything but a wild guess. However, if your fish are not spending all their time in front of pump returns or power heads during the day then you likely have adequate dissolved oxygen levels while photosynthesis is at work. If at night you go out to your tank a couples hours after the lights are out and your fish are in front of water returns or jets, or at the top of the tank just hanging around, then a sump or refugium with plants under a opposite light cycle to your main tank would be an appropriate action, because even taking off your glass top and increasing circulation would not help sufficiently. Hopefully this long thread helps answers some questions.
 
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