More beginner corals?

[Nonfamous]

So I'm getting into this hobby. My tank is stocked with non/semi aggressive fish. The worst being a Dwarf Flame Angel. Total of 8 fish. Chromis, FoxFace, Lawnmower blenny, clown, RG for the rest. I just got a nice Zoa and it seems to be doing well. Its in the top 1/3 for the water column. (2 t-5s and some LEDs) I also have these guys. I have moved them to the bottom after some advice I got here. (Was told they were Zoas initially)

So I'm still looking to add some more colour to my tank. What would you folks suggest? Something EASY to care for and that will grow. Reds, blues, yellows, moderate to low light, any level of the water column.

Thinking about that picture, I have two of those, about the size of a silver dollar. They are on a piece of rock smaller than the coral. right now they are sitting on the sand. Should they be sitting on a larger piece of rock? They really don't seem to be growing at all. I know its a slow grower, but I would expect to see something by now.

Before you ask, all water parameters are nominal. I don't yet test for everything. Only the basics + phosphates. What else should I be testing for? Should I supplement with anything?

 

[AdeptMrSniffles]

In terms of new corals you could get some cool Palythoas, pretty much larger Zoas. There's Duncan corals, Green Star Polyps, mushrooms (which come in so many colors you won't know what to do!)

The coral in the pic is a Moon Favia. I'd place it on the sand bed and feed it a few times a week at night when the feeder tentacles are out. I have a war coral that's covered an entire frag plug in about 3 weeks, with good feeding of course. You can pickup a cheap turkey baster together the food down to it easily.

You asked about supplements. Respectively I think majority of people here would tell you to NEVER dose without testing your parameters first.

Good luck. :)

 

[Northstar24]

If you aren't testing for it, don't dose for it - thats just asking for problems.

The corals that have been sugguested are all good places to start

 

[Smitty]

+2 to the above

 

[Samhain]

I'm having huge success with acans as well. They come in a bunch of colors and seem to be fairly easy keepers. Leathers are supposed to be easy too. Not as many colors as acans, but from all reports fairly hardy.

 

[Nonfamous]

Okay, I picked up a Ca test kit today. First time I have seen one in stock at a pet store. Go figure! Usually they only have the test strips. So I tested my water. According to the instructions it comes out to 500ppm. What is a "correct" number for this test?

 

[AmberSunrise]

I have had great success using 2 T5s also with frogspawn, anthelia and kenya trees, green star polyps, duncans, and all colors of mushrooms and ricordias.

 

[justanotherfishhead]

Okay, I picked up a Ca test kit today. First time I have seen one in stock at a pet store. Go figure! Usually they only have the test strips. So I tested my water. According to the instructions it comes out to 500ppm. What is a "correct" number for this test?

I've heard between 400-500 is good. I'm not sure if you have to worry about it being too high, unless you are dosing it and added too much. Usually people seem to worry about it being too low. So I think you're good.

 

[Chris in SC]

I've heard between 400-500 is good. I'm not sure if you have to worry about it being too high, unless you are dosing it and added too much. Usually people seem to worry about it being too low. So I think you're good.

Just an FYI- There is such a thing as too high. The most commonly accepted numbers as being right are between 400-440. Higher than that, there can be what is called super-saturation. Not good- it causes precipitation of Calcium Carbonate. I keep my reefs at 420 with a dkH of 6.5. I have great growth and health at that concentration.

I highly recommend the use of Bio-Calcium by Tropic Marin. It doesn't screw around with the PH like many additives do.
Hope that helps you.

 

[justanotherfishhead]

Just an FYI- There is such a thing as too high. The most commonly accepted numbers as being right are between 400-440. Higher than that, there can be what is called super-saturation. Not good- it causes precipitation of Calcium Carbonate. I keep my reefs at 420 with a dkH of 6.5. I have great growth and health at that concentration.

I highly recommend the use of Bio-Calcium by Tropic Marin. It doesn't screw around with the PH like many additives do.
Hope that helps you.

Thanks for clarifying that. Is there any way someone's tank would be too high in calcium, other than if they were adding extra?

 

[Chris in SC]

That is an awesome question that I just don't know the answer to. The longer I am in this hobby, the more I find that I need to learn. ( I only knew everything in the first 8 years or so! LOL ) Let's go back to your testing method and a coupla other questions though.

Are you using a Titrate-type test where you add until you reach a certain color? If so- are you certain that you are reading it correctly?
Have you tested more than once?

Did you test right after a major water change?
What salt are you using?
What is your Salinity reading?
What is your PH reading?
What additives are you using and how soon after dosing with them did you test? You may not have noticed that many additives also have a portion of Calcium in them. Many times, that portion is not in balance. Check your labels.

Answer those, and it may provide a clue. Not to worry, we'll get an answer before long.

 

[Nonfamous]

That is an awesome question that I just don't know the answer to. The longer I am in this hobby, the more I find that I need to learn. ( I only knew everything in the first 8 years or so! LOL ) Let's go back to your testing method and a coupla other questions though.

Are you using a Titrate-type test where you add until you reach a certain color? If so- are you certain that you are reading it correctly?
Have you tested more than once?

Did you test right after a major water change?
What salt are you using?
What is your Salinity reading?
What is your PH reading?
What additives are you using and how soon after dosing with them did you test? You may not have noticed that many additives also have a portion of Calcium in them. Many times, that portion is not in balance. Check your labels.

Answer those, and it may provide a clue. Not to worry, we'll get an answer before long.

Yes, I am using a titrate test. I test twice every test. All 4 times I have tested (8 tests) all have come out the same. I am certain I am doing it correctly. I took my share of chem labs AND my sister does this type of test daily. She was here when I did the first series. She works for the EPA and has a masters in watershed management. I do all of my testing after the lights have been on for at least 4 hours but no longer than 6 hours.

The first series was done 1 day after a WC. I have tested 3 more times since then with near identical results. Within 1 drop. (Pink to purple to blue, shaking the mixture after every drop AFTER 15.)

I am running Instant Ocean and have been since day one. SG of 1.025. Water is made up from RODI, mixed and heated and allowed to "age" for 1 week or more. My pH is pegged on 8.2 and rarely, has it changed. Actually, the ONLY change has been that it has come up to 8.2 from 8.0 over the last 2 months.

I add nothing to my tank except for WC and food. I feed my fish daily with Sally's Multi-Pack frozen.

I'm not concerned that this number is too high, I was just wonder what range is acceptable so that if I do see a fall off, I can do something to correct it.

FWIW, I did contact API and all of my testing supplies are good. One other item, not sure if it would have any effect, my PO is at .25. I'm running Cheato in the sump to try to bring that down a little, but so far, I have seen no change in the test results. I know that test is known to be incorrect. Many false positives/negatives.

 

[Chris in SC]

I think that as long as your PH has no change and is running 8.2 - 8.3 that you are good to go for a while. If it were me, I'd be sure to introduce some seasoned LR that has a significant amount of Coraline on it. That will take up the extra Calcium in short order. Perhaps you can get some from your LFS or a helpful fellow enthusiast. I give the stuff away a LOT to help folks settle new tanks down. If Roswell is anywhere near Batesburg, SC- I'd be happy to give you a chunk or two.
Your tank, in my opinion, should not consistantly run at 500 for Calcium, but w/ new tanks, is not a hairy deal. Just watch the PH for major changes. As to the PO ( which I think you mean Phosphate? I am not up on a lot of abbrev. ) it is difficult to feed frozen daily and have that not be an issue- especially in a newish tank. Please be certain to rinse it well, as the 'juice' they pack in high in fats and can foul a tank quickly. Dollar Tree has little tiny strainers that are perfect for the job. Hey, for a buck- it's hard to get anything useful anymore, right?
Running Cheato in sump is great, but I also like Prolifera. It is insatiable when it comes to Phosphate uptake. If you get LR from me and want some Prolifera, I have a wad of it available. The are a few other tricks for Phosphate removal, but I think your numbers do not warrant them as yet.
I used to use Instant Ocean but switched to Instant Ocean Reef Crystals when I noticed that the buffering wasn't what I wanted it to be. You don't seem to have that issue, so no problems there.
Sure sounds like you have done your homework! Kudos to you. Most folks new in the hobby tend to jump in with both feet and no rubber boots. If you want seasoned LR and Prolifera, give me a holler in PM. Happy to help if I can.

 

[Nonfamous]

Wow, been a week already since you posted this. Guess I need to check back on MY threads more often!

Thanks for the offer! I have pretty good LR and a good amount of Coraline in my tank. I have continued testing and things (either the water or my testing skills!) are starting to stabilize around the 460 mark. I'm going to wait for a week or so before I add anything else to the tank. (Won't stop me from looking though!)

I've spoken to a few folks who work or worked at the Atlanta Aquarium about my tank. They are strongly suggesting the addition of another 2 bulb t5 light. They gave me some numbers to look for an I'll likely pick up a new unit this weekend. They both said that the lighting I have will support the corals I have, but its doubtful they will grow very fast or have the colour they would if I added more light. (My Yellow polyps are kinda yellow brown.)

 

[Chris in SC]

Very cool! The light is the difference betwix surviving and thriving. Sounds like you are on your way! Good luck.

 

[Ulta]

yes, I definetly suggest you upgrade your lights. For a 90g I would suggest a Mixture of say 2x 250w MHs + your T5's or ~8 T5's total. For enough light to grow all corals and see good growth in them.

Like Biff says; general rule of thumb is to be MINIMUM of 4 watts per gallon of MH or T5 lighting. And that is just the low end corals.

In actuality, its more about PAR levels, and placement in your tank ie. depth.

I don't know about your LEDs but most likely they are hardly adding much PAR to your tank so are just helping slightly or just for aesthetics. Sufficient LEDs for that size tank would cost well over $1000.

Also, here is a link you should bookmark to help you understand/keep your Alk/Cal/Mag levels in check:
'Reef Chemistry Calculator FV'

 

[Ulta]

Oh, I forgot to add...

I would look for local reefers breaking down their systems and see if you can't find some good lights that way. Here in Michigan we have a website called Michigan Reefers and the Selling Forums are always exploding with people selling 2nd hand reefing equipment. Where I could easily find say a 3 bulb 250w MH fixture for about $200 or maybe less. Or maybe a 6-8 Bulb T5 fixture for less than $300. And lots of retrofit kits for prolly half that. I don't know how other areas are some areas might only be limited to craigslist.