My first, 29g

That looks promising. One thing, flourescent t5s allow for full spectrum and actinic light, ussualy in separate bulbs (so I gather). Is the same true for metal halide? By the way Biff, I might be looking at buying some of your cheato when I get set up. I want my reef to be all that it can be. Will you still be selling it and supplying the store?
 
I will definitely still be selling chaeto online. Any time you're ready for some, just let me know.

With halide bulbs, you choose the color for the one bulb. 10K is pretty white, higher K bulbs are bluer. I like 12K, but some people like even more blue than that, even 15K or 20K. So it's basically combined in one bulb instead of having one blue and one white bulb, like you would with T5s.

I want my reef to be all that it can be.

Are you going to make it join the Army?? :bounce::bounce:

Sigh.
 
As for the light that Yote showed you...................yes, the legs will slide in to fit your tank. If you fo the MH route like Biff showed you, I would suggest a 14k bulb. I didn't see them offered but the 10k bulbs are too yellow, and I assume the 6700 will look like you got drunk and peed in your tank.
 
The peed in look is what I am going for. So, I will be getting the MH with 14K bulbs then. Unless something even better comes along.
 
I have a 29G.

Ditto all advice here.
Rest rock on glass bottom --rock slides have happened and ruined tanks!
MH light solves the whole light issue. T5s might work but MH will definitely work.

Cheato is the best way I know to get 'trates down but by itself will not eliminate them
 
Got a new question. I am cycling my live rock. It has been in for one week and there is a white film on the sides of the tank. I have read that the water gets really nasty with ammonia and nitrites but nothing said anything about white films. Is this normal? Do I just let it go or do I scrape it off? According to research all water parameters are in check except pH which is low, 7.8-8.0.
 
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