Nitrate problem....

cfortin

Reefing newb
Here is the deal, I have this tank that has been running a year or more, and I noticed for the past couple of weeks my nitrate readings have been way higher than I like to see them. I have done frequent water changes and a Nitrate remover, still no changes. Anybody have any other ideas I would appreciate them.
 
How about some tank parameters - I would assume you are talking about the tank in your sig a 24 gallon. How many fish and what size are they? What is your feeding schedule and what do you feed? Do you use tap or ro/di water? If you use tap test your tap water. The levels in tap water can fluctuate due to a number of diff things. Just a few things that might help figure out what is going on.
 
I agree with patrick... would also like to know how much LR, what type skimmer, list of everything you add in your tank, and how often and what % WCs do you do.

This information will help us help you.
 
also what kind of filter do you use,if its a canistor the detris build in there will make nitrates raise unlees clean frequently.My 30 has had nitrate problems till recently.I swapped my hob filter for a hor refugium filled with live sand/mud on the bottom and culpera macro to take up nitrates
 
Thank you all for replying. I have a 25 gallon Eclipse tank withmultiple pieces of coral. including two anemones. I have three fish- two paired tomato clowns and a mandarin. I also have a shrimp, snails and an emerald crab, and flashing scallop. I feed brine shrimp- frozen and phyto plankton for the corals every 4 days on the brine. My water is premixed from the store- ro/di. My filter and bio wheel came with tank, I do clean filter every 4-5 days or when necessary. % WC's arte anywhere from 10- 40 % depending on levels. I add as well iodine, calcium, and strontium. Please help, thank you all again. Hope this helps.
 
you need a protein skimmer.....

Is there anyway you could add or hang one of the below on your tank?
AquaC Remora/Remora Pro Protein Skimmers - Marine Depot - Marine and Reef Aquarium Super Store

Also make sure you melt the frozen food in a cup of tank water first then poor it through a net then just put the food in the net into the tank.

Can you also clarify this statement just a bit... kind of confusing
"I feed brine shrimp- frozen and phyto plankton for the corals every 4 days on the brine"

Brandon
 
Hey, thanks for the reply I cant hang anything because the top of the tank is the entire filtration system and lighting. As far as the feeding, I feed the phytoplex every couple of days and the brine shrimp every 4 days. trting to cut down on wastes. The shrimp is frozen then I do mix with tank water to defrost it first before feeding. Hope this helps, Also can 2 anemones touch- if it is a problem how do I solve this and if they touch mushrooms does that kill them?
Thanks again,
Chad
 
You would be much better off feeding mysis instead of brine shrimp. The mysis have much more nutritional value than the brine. I would also agree with Brandon, strain the mysis or brine before putting them in your tank. The water they are frozen in can add to your nitrate level. Have you seen your mandarin eat the food you feed? If not watch it very closely. Most mandarin's will only eat live pods. It usually takes a lot of live rock ( at least 50 lbs ) and a lot of pods to keep a mandarin from starving. It should look fat along the body - if it looks thin or sunk in, it's starving. If this is the case buy some tigger pods to help seed your tank with pods. What type of lighting is on the tank? What type of anemone's do you have?
 
My mandarin looks good so I hope he is happy, but he does tend to stay to the back of the tank. I haven't heard of mysis or tigger pods, can I pick them up at any fish store? Also I have compacts 50/50 with mirrors built in. My anemones are both bubble tip. Thanks again any word on nitrate problem.
 
Bio wheels will contribute to nitrates, and detritus. just before a water change take a small pump and blow around the tank to get all of the detritus off of and from between the rocks, corals, etc like a storm. once in suspension let the filters do their job, then clean filters and change water. it will take a while to get the nitrates down but, it you blow around each week for a few weeks and then every other week for a couple months, and then monthly conbined with water changes you should get a better handle on the nitrates. you have nitrates because the bio load, fish, animals, feeding etc exceed the capability of the maintenance. good luck let us know how you do with the clean up.
 
JHNRB has given good advice about the bio-wheel nitrate trap.If you have a good amout of live rock I would remove the whell and let the rock process the conversion.Also you get some seachem de-nitrate and put under the filter pad.I started with the same eclipse top,and moved on to a full canopy and 130 watt retro fit light.This allowed a skimmer of choice,and hob refugium to be added for ferture nitrate reduction.I have seen plans on how modify a eclipse hood to add something like a seaclone skimmer.Try googling for it.Also if upgrade you lighting your coral will be more happy
 
You can get frozen mysis shrimp cubes at Petco and Petsmart. They are not difficult to find in stores, and my fish prefer the taste of mysis to brine shrimp.
 
Hi,

I am in the process of re-starting marine but there is meant to be a seaweed called Calurpa which can be kept in it's own container for example in a separate tank in your cabinet which needs to be lit 24/7. I do not have any direct experience but I am researching this before I start up as I have had nitrate problems in the past.
 
Look for an algea called cheato if you are going to do that.

Calurpa can turn sexual on you, which isn't good for the tank.

Just my recommendation.
 
I would agree that cheto is the safer of the two,but calurpa has been working nicely in my refugium,and it came to me free of charge.
 
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