Sump ...HELP!

R

rwynn

Big Daddy
So, setting up my sump. For the first time.

I have it all working as it should, water going down south via siphon plumbing, water coming back up via return pump....my issue how on earth do I get these pump rates equal?

I have a ball valve on the siphon(it is more powerful than my return just a tad tad bit)

I am getting extremely close but cannot get them equal..is their a magic trick?

Also, how can I keep my sump levels constant(if I add water to the sump now the level would go up but not readjust to the correct level.

Edit: 10g Sump, 40g tank, 1/2 pvc siphoning to sump and 1/2 return.

Thanks!
 
I just set mine up today as well, but I didn't run into this problem. (Maybe I did something wrong)

All I did was, add water into the skimmer and LR Chambers, And about 1/2 of what I needed for the return pump. I had extra water ready to go, and as the pump started pumping (and in turn draining it's chamber) I kept pouring water onto it so that it did not run dry. That got everything kicking.

What kind of return pump?

I used (2) 3/4" (downward) on my overflow and 1 1/2" going back up with the return pump. I'm using a mag 9.5. It stated in the instructions to get maximum flow use a min. of 1 1/2" pipe.

Is the pump running dry?

Do you have dividers in the sump...Are they different heights?
 
Well I don't have an over flow....and as I typed that I realized why pushing water over an overflow by adding water down below works and a siphon from the top working on it's own does NOT atleast not as easily.

Anyone have a good suggestion on a way to DIY an overflow or make this work? I'd rather not buy an overflow right now(I'm thinking about drilling the tank for a corner overflow if that is feasible)
 
i dont believe you will ever get it right with a regular siphon as a way to get water to the sump. if you do then you would be really really good.

either an overflow box is the easiest way but that costs money.

Drilling the tank is the best way to do it. the problem with this being the tank has to be empty. if you dont have experience drilling glass, i know some lfs do it for a small fee. i know mine does. drill 2 holes. you can do it on the back side or the bottom of the tank it doesnt matter. just depends on how you want it plumbed. keep in mind the bottom of your tank may be tempered and this makes it harder to drill.
 
I was considering drilling in 1 corner with an overflow there, would there be a problem with only 1 side draining and not both corners?
 
Cool, yall think drilling it myself would be very difficult? I guess taking it to a glass shop would mean if it breaks they would replace it ya?

Or would a HOB overflow be more convenient since I've already got it all setup and the like.
 
It depends. I'd think that most glass shops will say they're not responsible if something bad happens. You'd have to ask them about that before you went ahead with it.
 
i was saying one for the return and one for the overflow. haha but you could pipe the return over the back and into the tank.

whatever works for ya :)
 
I got an overflow box off CL for $10. it works fine....It might be louder than a drilled tank, but my sump is in another room...Being a newb, I'm not certain why the veterans really like a drilled tank, is it sound, is it asthetics? I'm not sure.

Since we all know that you'll be getting a larger tank in the future anyway, I would just find a used overflow box. For $10 your problem is solved without draining your DT.
 
I saw that one also. There is also one where you take a large and small specimen cup and make a overflow out of it. This guy does it on u-tube he doesnt know much about reef tanks everything in his tank is wrong but he does show how to do the box build. [ame]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=A-s9mX0B6as[/ame] [ame]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=XcRxvUNC2Ng&feature=related[/ame] [ame]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=gkdyJ_xsYwg&feature=related[/ame]
 
Heh Well atleast for tonight I am good, I marked the sump with a sharpy and after 15 minutes the water level hasn't moved even a single 1mm.
 
Thats good. I just happened to already have these linked on my computer because I am getting ready to do the same thing. I just cant justify paying a $100 bucks for a overflow box.
 
Agreed. I'll build one this week if that PVC pipe one works then I'll do that since inve got lots of pipe already it wouldn't cost anything
 
rwynn, you need to get a PVC gate valve:
Gate Valve - Slip X Slip Details

Ball valves suck for water flow tuning, they are really mostly meant to be on or off because they only do this in a quarter turn. I got mine tuned but it took forever. Anyways, a gate valve will allow you to specifically dial in the flow rate since it takes several turns to open or close the valve.
 

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