water change questions

R

reefer82

Reefing newb
Top off water

I use RO/DI water but the water comes out at a very low PH when I test the PH with the test kit it shows up orange. Am I suppose to be dosing PH buffer into the water before putting it into the tank. I read that when you do top off you should always match PH Salinity and Temp.


Water Changes

Samething except salt usually brings up the PH to about 7.7 to 7.8.
does the SG have to be exactly the same as in my tank.

I guess what I'm trying to ask is how do I prepare my water to put in the tank when doing water changes and top offs?
 
Here is what I do and expect is very near to what most reefers do.

The Whole Process:

While I do this my main circulation pumps are off and I close valves between my display tank and my sumps (this varies according to how your system is plumbed and if it is drilled or HOB).

I have a branch off my RODI with a separate RO and DI canister just for my change water, many have a valve they turn which runs the RODI into their version of a fill tank. Mine is a plastic trash can that holds 30 gallons. It has a float switch in it, and a switch so I can turn it on or off. I turn it on and let it fill my change water tank (the trash can). It takes a couple of days to fill. When it is full the float turns it off. I then check the salinity to see what it reads. Then I plug that amount into a spread sheet and it tells me how much salt to add to bring it up to where I want it. I then add the salt. I have the spread sheet calculation set to be a little shy of enough salt so I can make a last minute adjustment and not over shoot.

The change water fill tank (or whatever you use) needs to have a heater and a circulation pump of some kind in it. You bring the water salinity up to meet your display tank as near as you can. You check to see that the temperature is a match.

Then my method is to drop a pump I have that is connected to a white water hose into my display tank. White water hoses are usually manufactured to be used for drinking water, check the label. This pump has the adapter added so I can use a siphon tube to clean any areas I wish to clean while I do the water change. It "plugs" on or off. So I use that while I pump my tank down to a tape mark on the back of the tank. The tape mark tells me when I have pumped out the amount of water that leaves me some safety water, and not loose suction amount in my change water tank, when I do the next step. The other end of the hose clips to the rim of a toilet but does not let the end of the hose touch any thing at the toilet.

When the water level is down to my tape mark I unplug the pump, wrap it in a towel, and lift it out of the tank to break siphon and lift it and the hose walking them back to the toilet to drain the water so I don't mess the floor with it. Then I lift the other end and carry both back to the change water tank. I drop the pump into the change water tank with the water being the right temp and salinity. I clip the other end of the hose onto the rim of my display tank and plug in the pump.

When the tank is about full I turn on the circulation pumps and open the valves. Then when the water level in the last chamber of the sump is at the right level I unplug the change water pump and it breaks siphon because it is up higher than the change water tank and is not in the water. So I walk the hose back the the change water tank to drain it, lift out the pump and let it drain.

Then I coil up the pump and hose and store it away and towel up the few drops of spillage.. and this has happened in about 10 minutes.. no fuss - no mess.

Sounds complex but is a walk in the park.

Some people have it set up to do the same basic thing into a drain and do it all by flipping switches.
 
Last edited:
For top offs, the amount you're adding is so small that you don't need to worry about temp or anything. Just put it right in your tank.

For your water changes, match the temp and salinity. I've never measured or matched my pH when doing them.
 
They've got you covered. Regular water has a natural ph of 7.0, but the amount is so small when added to the tank, that it doesn't affect it. This is also why you need buffers in the tank such as enough live rock and live sand, to keep the tank ph stabilized.
 
Top off water is only to replace evaporation. So it is RODI.. like said above by Brain.. You add pure RODI because only pure water evaporates all the salt and other trace elements are still at the same volume. When you do water changes you take what ever salt and trace elements are in the water volume being removed with it.
 
When I do my water changes I tend to over shoot my salinity at times becuase the instructions on the instant ocean bucket are not accurate. which is a pain becuase then I have to make RO/DI all over again and start from scratch.
 
reefer82 said:
When I do my water changes I tend to over shoot my salinity at times becuase the instructions on the instant ocean bucket are not accurate. which is a pain becuase then I have to make RO/DI all over again and start from scratch.
Click to expand...

I don't know if this is a factor, but do you tumble your tub around to remix it so it is consistent through the container.. this COULD explain why you find it hard to make accurate mixes.. also like I suggested (was taught this in SERE training in the military. to deliberately error on the side that assures an accurate next decision, when error is not avoidable) mix it light first then correct to avoid starting over from scratch.. PLUS. why start over from scratch.. when you can remove a portion of the water and add RODI to compensate?? ...just saying..
 
Another thing about salinity...ever notice that cold water and warm water seem to have different readings.....I mix my water a little low on salt. Then I put a heater and a powerhead in it for 24 hours...then I check the salinity again and adjust accordingly.
 
Ted said:
Another thing about salinity...ever notice that cold water and warm water seem to have different readings.....I mix my water a little low on salt. Then I put a heater and a powerhead in it for 24 hours...then I check the salinity again and adjust accordingly.
Click to expand...

That makes perfect sense..

I never thought about it, I guess because mine is heated and it fills slowly enough it is at temp when I add salt.. but I can see where other reefers could have a concern there. I know you can get a different reading on the refractometer after you wait for it and the salt mix on the glass to match.
 
:shock:

Ummmh... it is done.. but... I'm not going to do it...

..there is a school of thought, and several reefers do it, where you use an algae scrubber and harvest the algae to remove toxins and bad traces. .. and it does reduce the costs of setting up a reef tank for several expensive reasons, one is they often don't even have a skimmer. .. but I haven't had that much luck getting one to grow enough algae. Some of the ones doing this feed the tank heavy so as to also feed the algae so they can harvest it. Then I believe they also dose trace elements. I'm sure someone will provide a link in the next few hours so you can make yourself aware.

And if you do FOWLR you may get away with it.. water changes are not hard to do and they have a proven record of success... so to me it is a no brainer.

When you see your tank respond to a water change.. it clears up any ideas to not doing them....IMO.
 
Last edited:
Ted said:
Another thing about salinity...ever notice that cold water and warm water seem to have different readings.....I mix my water a little low on salt. Then I put a heater and a powerhead in it for 24 hours...then I check the salinity again and adjust accordingly.
Click to expand...

If you use a hydrometer, they usually do not automatically adjust for temperature. If you use a refractometer, it should automatically compensate for temperature differences.
 

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