Help help help!!!

imdaring

love my reef
What is going on!! last night when I went to bed I notcied that all of my toads were slumped over, thought maybe they were shedding and 1 of my tourch coral was retracted and giving off a bunch of slime now this morning the toads look terrible the torch look like a shell my fox coral looks almost dead my hammer coral is retracting and so is my bubble? I did a quick dip on the tank to test it
nitrates are 20
nitrites are 0
ph 7.8
KH was high as normal

I'm getting ready to do a water change today just heating the RO water

I'm a few days behind on my water change because its been crazy around here with kids and school! so I hope thats not whats wrong?

ANY ADVICE PLEASE, I'm going to the LFS today so if there is anything I can pick up let me know ASAP
 
OK now I'm doing a iodine dip and there is brown slime coming out of the tourch coral? is this normal , and do I dare put them into my frag tank? to get them out of the main tank
 
also the only this that I added to my tank was I fed them live rotifiers the I had ordered online? do you thin maybe they were bad?
 
Sounds like the torch has brown jelly,which more offten than not is fatal to the coral.
What are your nitrates with another test kit?The nitrate strips cant be trusted to read even close 90% of the time.
Also what did the water temp drop down to last night?
 
OK I re did the nitrate test and it came up 20ppm same as always? and my water temp always stays at 81 deg. day and night
 
you could have brown jelly disease if so take the coral out and throw it away but look it up first. i dont want you to kill it if it does not actually have it.
 
what lights are you running. my suggestion is to pull the pH up to 8.2. it sounds like you could have a parasite going around, have you added anything recently?
 
Its normal for PH to drop at night when the lights are not on.Whats the PH reading right before the lights are off for the night?
The only other thing that comes to my feable mind is stray voltage.Might be a good idea to check for that.
 
I put PH buffer in about a hour ago, have not checked it yet. I have 2 65WT double tube Day lights, and 2 double tube 65 wt actinic bulbs

The only thing I have put in the tank is I fed them live rotifiers about 2-3 days ago
 
if you get ph buffer on your corals also without diluting it well it will start melting them instantly, one my first newbie mistakes i did a couple years ago.
 
Dustins right about the light and anemone.You'll have to have a lot more wattage than what you have.
The reality is,there is at least 1,000 things that could be going on and causing your tank to crash.So it'd probably be a good idea to increase your water changes to at least 25% a week,if not a couple a times a week.Nitrates at 20 is lethal to a lot of corals and nearly all anemones(except for aiptasia and majano).So you'll need to get those down.
 
Corals and anemones are toxic, and something upsets them, they can make things worse by releasing their toxins into the water.

You have not nearly enough light to keep an anemone, and anemones require pristine water conditions (nitrates at zero) so if your anemone is stressed due to insufficient lighting and poor water quality (the most common anemone stressors), it could be the cause of your tank crashing. This is why anemones really need tanks that are mature, established and a year old.

It does sound like your coral has brown jelly disease, which is contagious and can spread to other corals. It is rarely treatable, and often fatal. Usually by the time you notice the brown jelly it's too late to save the coral.

I'd recommend doing frequent water changes of 10 to 20% every day or every other day until things start looking better. You will do your tank a favor by taking the anemone out and giving it to someone who has a tank that is able to support it.
 
Will this be good lighting?? I found it on ebay

48" Metal Halide 760W Reef light Aquarium Lighting VHO


Fixture Supports & Specification:-
HQI lamp: 2 x 250W
PC light bulb: 4 x 65W
Dual LED: 6 x Blue-Moon night light
Light Fixture unit dimension: 48" L x 15" W x 3" H
Fixture unit finish & material: non-corrosive powder coated aluminum housing
5" Internal built-in cooling fan: 1
Internal electronic PC ballasts: 4
External electronic HQI ballasts: 2
Individual power cords: 2 x HQIs, 1 x PCs, 1 x LEDs, 1 x Cooling fan
Independent frt & bk row PC: Yes
Plexi PC splash guard: 2
Heat treated glass HQI splash guard: 2
Individual timer compatible: Yes
 
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