I am in the beginning stages of my upgrade tank that will happen around when I buy our new house. I am wondering if anyone knows the maximum water depth metal halide is effective enough to support sps growth, and if there is a lighting technology other than MH more effective? Cost will not be a factor when the time comes for this.
Maximum Metal Halide Depth
- Thread starter rwynn
- Start date
ccCapt
Reef Hacker
If cost is no factor, get LED's.
Pacific Sun “Black Python” 90W LED BT EX – Master Unit Pacific Sun USA
Pacific Sun “Black Python” 90W LED BT EX – Master Unit Pacific Sun USA
parrotchute
DUSTOFF MEDEVAC
I use the aqua illumination LEDs - so far so good.
d2mini
Reef enthusiast
Definitely go LED.
But good question about depth. Has anyone done PAR readings at lower depths with LED vs 400w MH?
But good question about depth. Has anyone done PAR readings at lower depths with LED vs 400w MH?
ccCapt
Reef Hacker
No test with 400w MH, but a comparison was done between 250w MH, 6x39w T5HO and LED's.
Feature Article: Quantitative Comparison of Reef Aquarium Lighting Technologies: Metal Halide, T5 Fluorescent and LED | Advanced Aquarist's Online Magazine
"A 250W double ended USHIO 14000K lamp in a Sunlight Supply Lumen Max 3 reflector driven by a "HQI" M80 ballast was used a representative of the class of metal halide lamps.
Peak values of PAR achieved were 278 micromoles/m2/sec at distance 24" from the center of the lamp, and 190 at 30" from the lamp center.
The power consumption for this combination was 306 Watts."
"The 36"ATI Powermodule with 6 X 39W T5 lamps was claimed by many to be among the best in the class among the T5 fixtures and considered to be similar in power consumption to a 250W Metal halide setup. A representative lamp ATI EcoLux High Output 6500K lamp was chosen to perform the analysis for light distribution (primarily since I was able to acquire 6 of lamps easily).
Peak values of PAR achieved were 220 micromoles/m2/sec at distance 24" from the center of the lamp, and 161 at 30" from the lamp center.
The power consumption as measured by a true RMS watt meter was 254 W."
"The PFO Solaris LED fixture was a 24" 2X30 LED array, with a mix of blue, white and a couple of green LEDs.
Peak values of PAR achieved were 213 micromoles/m2/sec at distance 24" from the center of the lamp, and 160 at 30" from the lamp center.
The power consumption as measured by a true RMS watt meter was 216 W."
"The Eco-Lamps KR92 fixture (http://www.eco-lamps.com/) . A 24" version, with 91 LEDs was tested to evaluate the light distribution from some of the current generation of LEDs that are available in the market.
Peak values of PAR achieved were 224 micromoles/m2/sec at distance 24" from the center of the lamp, and 160 at 30" from the lamp center.
The power consumption as measured by a true RMS watt meter was 110 W."
Feature Article: Quantitative Comparison of Reef Aquarium Lighting Technologies: Metal Halide, T5 Fluorescent and LED | Advanced Aquarist's Online Magazine
"A 250W double ended USHIO 14000K lamp in a Sunlight Supply Lumen Max 3 reflector driven by a "HQI" M80 ballast was used a representative of the class of metal halide lamps.
Peak values of PAR achieved were 278 micromoles/m2/sec at distance 24" from the center of the lamp, and 190 at 30" from the lamp center.
The power consumption for this combination was 306 Watts."
"The 36"ATI Powermodule with 6 X 39W T5 lamps was claimed by many to be among the best in the class among the T5 fixtures and considered to be similar in power consumption to a 250W Metal halide setup. A representative lamp ATI EcoLux High Output 6500K lamp was chosen to perform the analysis for light distribution (primarily since I was able to acquire 6 of lamps easily).
Peak values of PAR achieved were 220 micromoles/m2/sec at distance 24" from the center of the lamp, and 161 at 30" from the lamp center.
The power consumption as measured by a true RMS watt meter was 254 W."
"The PFO Solaris LED fixture was a 24" 2X30 LED array, with a mix of blue, white and a couple of green LEDs.
Peak values of PAR achieved were 213 micromoles/m2/sec at distance 24" from the center of the lamp, and 160 at 30" from the lamp center.
The power consumption as measured by a true RMS watt meter was 216 W."
"The Eco-Lamps KR92 fixture (http://www.eco-lamps.com/) . A 24" version, with 91 LEDs was tested to evaluate the light distribution from some of the current generation of LEDs that are available in the market.
Peak values of PAR achieved were 224 micromoles/m2/sec at distance 24" from the center of the lamp, and 160 at 30" from the lamp center.
The power consumption as measured by a true RMS watt meter was 110 W."
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Bifferwine
I am a girl
So MH still get better depth penetration than LEDs. They just consume more power. Right?
I am thinking something in the 4 to 5ft deep range. I really like Dennis' rimless cube, but when I upgrade I want something very final, in regards to size. I have seen a few tanks on RC using Solatubes, some people equated them to 1000w MH, one tank I saw was running strong with sps for over a year with 3 tubes over a 5'wx5'lx3'd sps tank, he also had 1 fixture on either side of the tubes with something like 6 actinics. I am in Texas and we get a lot of sun normally, he was in Australia.... I really liked how on cloudy days or weather of any sort the fish got to experience the same things.
If these are viable options for Texas I was thinking a cluster of 5 tubes with t5 supplemental actinics.
If these are viable options for Texas I was thinking a cluster of 5 tubes with t5 supplemental actinics.
bjohanson1234
.........
I looked up solatubes since I didnt know what they were.
The only thing that I think might be a problem would be the spectrum. Water on the reef filters out much of the red and yellow wavelengths of light that reach the corals. So the spectrum of the full sun might wash out the colors. But adding the actinics might suppliment it enough.
Also, direct sunlight can cause algea problems since they seem to thrive at those warmer wavelengths.
Those solatubes do seem like a neat Idea to light up a bedroom or living room. But seem limited to only working in the top floor.
The only thing that I think might be a problem would be the spectrum. Water on the reef filters out much of the red and yellow wavelengths of light that reach the corals. So the spectrum of the full sun might wash out the colors. But adding the actinics might suppliment it enough.
Also, direct sunlight can cause algea problems since they seem to thrive at those warmer wavelengths.
Those solatubes do seem like a neat Idea to light up a bedroom or living room. But seem limited to only working in the top floor.
daugherty
part time reefer
there are a few tanks on RC that are using solar tubes and attinics and are having great sucess with them
d2mini
Reef enthusiast
That guy has way too much water in his house lol. But if it works for him, I can make it work....I'm just wondering because I have yet to see anyone with a tank as deep as I'd like to do....but I reckon coral grows in deeper than 24'' water in nature so why not here....thanks for the input. I'll be making more posts I'm sure as I move through this planning state.(and to think I only have 3 corals in my 40g lol)
