I will definitely post pics when I get in from work. My wife is testing it regularly. PH, nitrate and nitrite are fine. These are the tests my lfs said were important, shoudl I get something else?
Quarantine Tank Help
- Thread starter jrock4411
- Start date
I will definitely post pics when I get in from work. My wife is testing it regularly. PH, nitrate and nitrite are fine. These are the tests my lfs said were important, shoudl I get something else?
It sounds like it's this, based on what I see....
Coral Reef Disease
Coral Reef Disease is one of the most common diseases of freshwater and marine fish, which can rapidly cause death if not treated promptly. The parasite primarily attacks the gills, body, and fins of the fish. The parasite, which is a small protozoan, is introduced into the aquarium through nonquarantined fish. The disease is rapidly transmitted from infested fish to other fish in the aquarium. During the life cycle of the parasite, it first develops on the fish's body and when mature drops to the aquarium bottom. The parasite encysts, then undergoes cell multiplication to form small free swimming parasites called dinospores. These young parasites are released from the cyst and infect other marine fish. Coral reef disease must be treated as soon as the disease is identified. A delay in treatment can result in the death of all your aquarium fish.
But it could be this based on what I'm reading here.....
White Spot Disease
"White spot disease" or "Ich", is a primarily cutaneous infection of freshwater and marine fish caused by the protozoan parasite Ichthyophthirius multifilis. Ich most often causes the appearance of small white spots over the body and fins of fish. However, it is important to note that Ich can present with many different appearances, and that other things besides Ich can cause small white spots on the body. Thus, the only sure-fire way to know that what you're treating is Ich is to scrape the skin of your affected fish and look at the scraping under the microscope. For those of you interested in looking at things under the microscope, Ichthyophthirius is a large ciliated protozoan with a U-shaped micronucleus. Its shape changes as it moves through the water, and it appears to "tumble" as it moves. For those of you not interested in skin scrapings, you can have a high rate of success just assuming that what you're treating is Ich. To effectively treat Ich, it's important to understand a little bit about the life cycle of the organism:
1. The adult stage lives on the skin and body of the fish. It will burrow under the epidermis, causing skin damage. Disruption of the skin leads to osmoregulatory disturbances, osmotic stress, and allows for the easy entrance of secondary invaders like bacteria.
2. The cyst stage lives on the bottom of the aquarium, and gives rise to about 300 tomites per cyst.
3. The tomite stage is the only stage which is sensitive to the medication! The life cycle takes 12-16 days to complete, depending on the temperature, and the tomite stage lasts for only three days.
All of these facts may seem trivial, but they are important because they dictate what treatments will be effective
Coral Reef Disease
Coral Reef Disease is one of the most common diseases of freshwater and marine fish, which can rapidly cause death if not treated promptly. The parasite primarily attacks the gills, body, and fins of the fish. The parasite, which is a small protozoan, is introduced into the aquarium through nonquarantined fish. The disease is rapidly transmitted from infested fish to other fish in the aquarium. During the life cycle of the parasite, it first develops on the fish's body and when mature drops to the aquarium bottom. The parasite encysts, then undergoes cell multiplication to form small free swimming parasites called dinospores. These young parasites are released from the cyst and infect other marine fish. Coral reef disease must be treated as soon as the disease is identified. A delay in treatment can result in the death of all your aquarium fish.
But it could be this based on what I'm reading here.....
White Spot Disease
"White spot disease" or "Ich", is a primarily cutaneous infection of freshwater and marine fish caused by the protozoan parasite Ichthyophthirius multifilis. Ich most often causes the appearance of small white spots over the body and fins of fish. However, it is important to note that Ich can present with many different appearances, and that other things besides Ich can cause small white spots on the body. Thus, the only sure-fire way to know that what you're treating is Ich is to scrape the skin of your affected fish and look at the scraping under the microscope. For those of you interested in looking at things under the microscope, Ichthyophthirius is a large ciliated protozoan with a U-shaped micronucleus. Its shape changes as it moves through the water, and it appears to "tumble" as it moves. For those of you not interested in skin scrapings, you can have a high rate of success just assuming that what you're treating is Ich. To effectively treat Ich, it's important to understand a little bit about the life cycle of the organism:
1. The adult stage lives on the skin and body of the fish. It will burrow under the epidermis, causing skin damage. Disruption of the skin leads to osmoregulatory disturbances, osmotic stress, and allows for the easy entrance of secondary invaders like bacteria.
2. The cyst stage lives on the bottom of the aquarium, and gives rise to about 300 tomites per cyst.
3. The tomite stage is the only stage which is sensitive to the medication! The life cycle takes 12-16 days to complete, depending on the temperature, and the tomite stage lasts for only three days.
All of these facts may seem trivial, but they are important because they dictate what treatments will be effective
winyfrog
Yep!
ammonia
nitrite
nitrate
ph
are the most important to a newer tank. I know that this tank has been set up before you purchased it but as mentioned before a tank that has been moved will go through a small cycle. You won't need to worry about the other tests until you want to keep corals.
nitrite
nitrate
ph
are the most important to a newer tank. I know that this tank has been set up before you purchased it but as mentioned before a tank that has been moved will go through a small cycle. You won't need to worry about the other tests until you want to keep corals.
Based on this list, should I divide my 50g tank and put a few into the 15g that I'm cycling? I'm thinking of getting a small hospital tank instead of emptying the 15g.....
winyfrog
Yep!
The corals and inverts will not get ich so you do not need to move them. I don't think that you are overcrowded, with the exception of the yellow tang which will out grow this size tank.
Pink tip anemone? do you know what kind this is?
Pink tip anemone? do you know what kind this is?
winyfrog
Yep!
no pictures posted.
winyfrog
Yep!
I can't see anything on the coral beauty. Can you get a better pic.
the anemone's are condylactic anemones.
the anemone's are condylactic anemones.
Bifferwine
I am a girl
There's no point to moving your sick fish into a quarantine tank with live rock and sand, and not treating it with meds. What good will it do? It will just stress the fish out to move, and then it will be in the same situation it was before.
If you are going to move the sick coral beauty to a new tank, your quarantine tank should be bare (no sand, no rock). You can put some PVC elbows in to give the fish shelter. Then you will want to medicate the tank. Sand and rock absorb medication, making it ineffective. And then you can never use the sand and rock again, as it will leach the medication back out into the tank for a long time afterwards. Putting sand and rock into a quarantine tank is pretty much throwing that sand and rock in the trash.
Usually, catching and moving a fish to a quarantine tank is a sure way to stress them even more. If the fish is still eating, then I'd recommend leaving it be, and giving it a chance to fight off the disease on its own. Lots of fish can overcome diseases if given immune-boosting supplements like garlic and vitamins. Add the garlic to all your food when you feed the display tank, it will help ALL your animals.
If you are going to move the sick coral beauty to a new tank, your quarantine tank should be bare (no sand, no rock). You can put some PVC elbows in to give the fish shelter. Then you will want to medicate the tank. Sand and rock absorb medication, making it ineffective. And then you can never use the sand and rock again, as it will leach the medication back out into the tank for a long time afterwards. Putting sand and rock into a quarantine tank is pretty much throwing that sand and rock in the trash.
Usually, catching and moving a fish to a quarantine tank is a sure way to stress them even more. If the fish is still eating, then I'd recommend leaving it be, and giving it a chance to fight off the disease on its own. Lots of fish can overcome diseases if given immune-boosting supplements like garlic and vitamins. Add the garlic to all your food when you feed the display tank, it will help ALL your animals.
Thank you Bifferwine, thats the closest thing to good news I've heard. I'm going to try that first. I guess it can't hurt to have some sand and rock in a tank by itself, this will let me add it to my DT, right?
Here is another pic I took that shows it on the fin. What you can see there is all over the little guy.
Here is another pic I took that shows it on the fin. What you can see there is all over the little guy.
Attachments
Bifferwine
I am a girl
It looks like ich. Coral beauties, although they are pretty hardy once they become established in your tank, seem to be pretty susceptible to ich. Like tangs, they seem to be easily stressed by new situations.
Your cleaner shrimp should help. You may want to get a neon goby (aka cleaner goby, they clean parasites off of fish). Stay away from the cleaner wrasse -- they look similar to the goby, but cleaner wrasses do not live long in captivity and should not be kept in our tanks.
Is the fish still eating? If it is, I'd say you have a good shot of beating this just by leaving it be.
Your cleaner shrimp should help. You may want to get a neon goby (aka cleaner goby, they clean parasites off of fish). Stay away from the cleaner wrasse -- they look similar to the goby, but cleaner wrasses do not live long in captivity and should not be kept in our tanks.
Is the fish still eating? If it is, I'd say you have a good shot of beating this just by leaving it be.
Bifferwine
I am a girl
Well, you can set it up as its own tank and do its own thing with it, or you can move the rocks and sand to your main tank (it looks like you need more rocks anyways), and just keep it as a quarantine tank for any sick fish in the future.
dcantucson
Reef pro
Just wondering how things are going? Did they make it?
