Questions on getting started with the right setup

I have decided to go with a closed loop system as I think it's best for the size of the tank. I'm having a heck of a time finding any type of instructions on how to do one. If I can't figure it out then I will go with Tunze.
 
Last edited:
Definitely a great idea. I have power heads in my tank and would do closed loop if I started over. You'll have more room for corals in your tank and a nicer appearance.
 
Closed loop is very easy. Its just a large external circulation pump. Usually one or two large intake ports and several small returns. IE for my 180 I will have a single 2" intake and 8x3/4" returns. The water never hits open air no sump not even a drop. It simply flows from the Display to the Pump and back to the Returns. It has to be drilled is the only "downfall" if you look at it that way. I dont, would much rather drill than have numerous powerheads for flow.
 
Ok give me a couple of weeks and Ill pm them to you. In its most basic for it is just a continueous SP cycle of pumping and returning. Think of it as a circle made from three arrows, at the beginning of the first arrow place your display tank, the second arrow is labeled in. Between the second and third arrows place your pump. Third arrow is labeled out which points back to the display.

Instead of haveing a large diameter input and output we break the outputs into several smaller outputs. Its a pretty simple idea, really.
 
wow, thanks!! I've been looking for something to help explain to me what it's all about. Pictures are helpful because I can understand what's going on ya know. Take all the time you need because I got time. It sounds simple, but my brain just lapses into a coma when I hear about it.

My second option would have been a few of these and one wavebox.
http://www.tunze.com/149.html?&L=1&C=US&user_tunzeprod_pi1[predid]=-infoxunter025

http://www.tunze.com/149.html?&L=1&C=US&user_tunzeprod_pi1[predid]=-infoxunter016


I was hoping to create something like this
http://www.tunze.com/fileadmin/images/product_database/Ikon.108.jpg

As long as I can create an oscillating current I'm happy.
 
yeah, I don't want something big, I want something small and pretty. Thanks for that link. I'm looking at and it looks nice and simple, but I wish I could just ask someone to supply me with all the tools I will need so I can just connect and be through with it ya know. I do want the closed loop system but everytime I look at the closed loop system I get really confused on what parts I need. I guess I really wish I could have someone do it for me. I'm going to do a closed loop if it takes me months to figure it out.
 
Last edited:
Just remember that with the oceans motion wavemaker in the second link that it will cut back your flow by 1/4 or 1/2 depending on the model. It will also increase your velocity. You want strong wide flow not a jet like in a spa.
 
I think i'll try it. If it can make an oscillating current then I'm all for it. I think 8 returns and two intakes would be good for a 300 gal. would each intake go to a separate pump?

I wonder if 8 will be enough for a 300 gal.
 
what is the best test kit to get? I was thinking of using API as I have used them before and am very comfortable with that brand. What do you guys use?
 
I've used the API kits.But I have a little trouble seeing the different colors on the color cards.I like the SeaChem kits,but there pricey.And Tropic Marin makes a decent kit,but expensive.
Others like the Salifert kits,but I've not used them.
 
I've heard good things about Salifert's amnonia kit being the most sensitive. Seachem kinda confuses me, the instructions aren't clear enough for me sometimes.
 
You really only need a high quality test kit for the most important parameters, and the ones where the details count.

For ammonia, you should only have ammonia while you're cycling. Unless something awful happens, you'll never have ammonia again. Most people buy an ammonia test kit and only use it for a few weeks. Plus, your cycle isn't over until the ammonia kit reads 0, so whether it's sensitive or not really doesn't matter. If ammonia is there in any amount, your tank is not finished cycling. Same goes for nitrite. There really isn't a reason to spend a lot of money on ammonia or nitrite kits.

The test kits that are more important are nitrate, pH, alkalinity and calcium (if you have corals). And those are basically all you need. Some people test for magnesium, but most don't. Phosphate test kits of any brand are worthless and not worth buying at all. Not because they are bad test kits, but because algae will use all the phosphate out of the water, so it doesn't hang around in the water column, and doesn't show up on a test kit, even though you have a big phosphate problem.

LaMotte and Salifert are two of the best brands.
 
hmm.. I believe I will have probes for nitrate, pH and calcium so I will just have to manually do alkalinity then and of course nitrite and ammonia while cycling.

I was thinking of testing for silica, magnesium, iodine and copper in the beginning as well just because it's a new tank and I want to make sure everything is good.
 
I use API for Ammonia,Nitrite and Nitrates. I use the Seachem for Iodine. Which most don't test for but I like to. I also test for Magneseum. I use a more expensive test for Calcium, Alkalinity, and Magneseum. I just like to be sure my paremeters are fine. Just call me paranoid.
 
yeah, I'm paranoid too, so I kinda want to test for many things that my tank will need to keep in check. I am vertainly going to check Iodine and magnesium. The copper and silica are just for beginning because the equipment will be new so I want to make sure nothing is contaminating the water and everything is working the way it should. I know nothing should contaminate but it will be good to check while breaking in the RO unit.

More questions. :)

Okay, I'm reading up on refugiums and I see many people recommend about 1/4 or 20% of your tank volume should be a refugium if you plan on using it a source of food to keep a nice supply for your main tank. So that means it would have to have 60gal.- 75gal. My question is does that include the water in the sump or just the refugium?

I was trying to figure out how to incorporate the UV filter into my tank system I am thinking maybe it should be turned on 6 hours during the day time so as not to hard so much plankton and other beneficial foods.
 
Back
Top