Tips

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Plevic Fins Missing

Not all saltwater fish have pelvic fins.

Take your time looking at the fish in the dealer's tanks before making any buying decisions. Do not be alarmed, however, if some fish appear to be lacking pelvic fins. Some triggerfish, filefish, and boxfish do not have them.

 

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How Many Fish

HOW MANY FISH WILL MY TANK SUPPORT?

As a guide to stocking levels in a reef system, allow 1 inch (2.5cm) of fish per 6 gallons (23L) of water. In a fish only system allow 1 inch (2.5cm) of fish per 3 gallons (11.5 liters). Stick to these levels for the first year of a tank's life. There can be no hard and fast rules as no two aquariums are ever identical, but, by being conservative during the first year chances of success are greatly enhanced.

 

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Fish Species For Reef System

SPECIES THAT CONTRIBUTE TO THE SUCCESS OF A REEF AQUARIUM.

In a reef aquarium it is worth introducing species that will undertake useful roles, and therefore put less overall pressure on the system, rather than fish that simply take and give nothing back. A good example is the yellow sailfin tang (Zebrasoma flavescens), which grazes on macro-algae. It is very useful in the prevention of filamentous forms of algae. Introducing this species with a bristletooth tang (Ctenochaetus spp.) is considered by many authorities to be an excellent and highly beneficial combination of fish.

 

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Is An Anemone Needed

A HOST ANEMONE IS NOT ALWAYS REQUIRED.

Not all clownfish requrie an anemone in the tank. Independent species include cinnamon (Amphiprion melanopus), tomato (A. frenatus), and maroon (Premnas biaculeatus). Dependncy on anemones may be receding as more and more clownfish are bred in captivity.

 

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water salinity

CHECK WATER SALINITY LEVELS DURING ACCLIMATIZATION.

When going through a gradual acclimatization process of water exchange, remember to check that the salinity in the bag matches that of the aquarium before introducing the animal, be it fish or invertebrate.

 

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Temporary cover

COVER THE TANK TO PREVENT NEW FISH JUMPING OUT.

If your aquarium is normally left open, it is a good idea to keep it covered for the first few nights following the introduction of new fish until they have settled in, many fish have a tendency to jump at night if they are spooked by other tank inhabitants. Once they have found a comfortable niche where they feel safe, they will settle down. (egg crate plastic light diffusers work well for an open cover, but keep safe distance from lights. Not 100% but will help).

 

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Can't Get Fish Out

CHOOSE FISH SPECIES AFTER CAREFUL CONSIDERATION.

Remember, it can be very difficult to extract unwanted fish from a heavily aquascaped tank; you may even have to strip down the tank to remove them. So do think carefully before introducing fish and make sure that they are a species that you really want to keep.

 

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Choosing Soft Corals And Anemones

Soft Corals and Anemones Should be Attached to rocks.

When buying soft corals or anemones always make sure they are firmly attached to a piece of rock. Do not buy specimens pried from their previous surface, they may have been physically damaged in the process. Sometimes such unattached specimens refuse to reattach to rocks once you get them home.

 

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Adding New Corals

Adding new Corals to the Aquarium.

When adding new corals to your display, always start them off low down in the tank to help avoid photo shock. Gradually move them up into their final position in a couple of steps spaced three or four days apart.

 

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Bagging Corals

Corals should be bagged up while under water.

Corals are packed in the same way as fish, although they should be at least double bagged to prevent the weight of the rock and water puncturing the bags. In the store make sure your coral is bagged underwater to help preserve any sponges that may be attached to the rock.

 

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Space Between Corals

Leave Plenty of Space Between Corals.

Always leave a generous gap between new corals and any already established in the aquarium. Bear in mind that most corals of different species are in a constant state of war and can damage each other if placed close enough to touch. Remember your corals are all going to grow.

 

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Zoanthids

Positioning Zoanthids for Maximum Impact.

With zoanthids you can often buy a specimen in which the colony is growing over a small group of rocks. You can quite easily tease them apart to produce a number of smaller colonies. Space out these corals around the reef to give the impression of more life or position them in one location to increase the apparent size of the colony.

 

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Adding Stony Corals

Don't add Stony Corals to the Tank Right Away.

It is a good idea to wait six months or so before starting to introduce stony corals. Stony corals have higher requriements for calcium and carbonates, so you will be far better prepared to look after them when you have had a bit of practice learning to measure calcium and carbonate levels, and supplementing accordingly, with less demanding species of soft corals.

 

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Zooxanthellae

What are the Zooxanthellae?

Zooxanthellae (Zooxanthella spp.) are single celled algae that live within the tissues of corals. Like other plants, they use the energy of sunlight and carbon dioxide to build basic sugars in the process of photosynthesis. The energy foods thay produce are used by the host coral, which provides the ideal habitat for the zooxanthellae to flourish.

 

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Brown Corals

Why do Some of my Corals Look Brown?

Brown coloration in corals can indicate a high density of symbiotic zooxanthellae. This can occur when there is insufficient light for the coral, and the number of zooxanthellae proliferate to provide more food for the coral. As light levels increase, the brown coloring fades and is replaced by brighter, more attractive colors generated by ultraviolet light protection pigments.

 

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Some Corals Not Thriving

Some of my Colrals don't Seem to be Thriving.

The ad hoc assortment of corals that often make up reef tank displays could go some way toward explaining why some species of coral never seem to thrive in a particular reef setup. The constant warfare between corals can lead to stress and disease, so unless proper measures are taken it seems inevitable that some corals will suffer.

 

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Intertidal Snails

Intertidal Snails can Become Marooned.

Watch out if you experiment with adding some of the newly available Nerita species snails to your reef. Although they are mostly useful herbivores, some species are intertidal and need to be able to leave the water. This can lead to problems with the snails drying out and dying when the tide does not come back in. They may even end up on the floor.

 

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Echinoderms

Echinoderms need a mature aquarium.

New aquariums do not contain enough food to sustain certain animals, particularly echinoderms such as sea stars. Even when mature smaller reef systems will only produce limited amounts of food. So beware; do not add more echinoderms than your reef can support.

 

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Acclimatization Time

Some Invertebrates Need More Acclimatization Time.

Certain invertebrates, notably echinoderms and molluscs, can be very sensitive to changes in salinity and should be acclimatized over a perior of time - up to two hours in the case of sea stars.

 

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Sponges

Never Allow Sponges to dry out - air can Kill them.

Keep sponges immersed in water at all times to prevent air being trapped inside the animal. Trapped air is a major cause of death. Avoid placing sponges in areas where they can become smothered by detritus. Blue and purple sponges have symbiotic species of cyanobacteria that require high levels of lighting.