d2mini's Epic Fantabulous New Reef Build

Thanks guys!

Yes, Richard invited me down to TBS to go out with him on the boat and help pull up rock. I'll be documenting the trip in pics! It's gonna be a quick trip but should be pretty cool.

I heard Richard actually uses the canal by his house for the rocks and actually goes on his boat to a party hotel on the water for men.:Buds: then :censored:
 
Re-plumbed my drains using 1.5" pipe instead of the 1" and got rid of all the horizontal runs and 90 elbows. Now I only have 45's and all gentle slopes after the initial vertical drop.
IT FLOWS LIKE NIAGARA FALLS!
I went from having to turn down my return pump 50% and running all my drains wide open, to running the return pump at 95% and choking back the main siphon to around 85%.

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Also been working on getting my Profilux set up. Ran Cat5e cable to my router so I can control it from my office, and will eventually set up remote access so I can access it from anywhere and get email alerts. Also in the middle of setting it up to run my ATO and AWC. Picked up a 44g grey Brute trashcan for my ATO/Kalk container and a 5g bucket of kalk powder, and ran the water lines from the RO/DI and to the Profilux. Will show everything in detail once it's done. :)
 
I bought 2 44Gal Brutes both with the wheel attachments, aren't they way over priced. To me $80 for a can and wheel rest is too much.

I recently diverted 2 lines away from my return like I said in the message I sent you. I was able to fit 2 1/2 threaded hose barbs, each with different size hose fitting because each reactor had a different hose size.

I see how you have yours on there to the pipe. How does that attach to the pipe. I have the 2 1/2 inch threads on my PVC. Are thos something I could screw into the 1/2 threads or is that only made to fit that gray piping.

I also had issues with my BRS Deluxe reactor never being able to unscrew it with the tool and it ripping the wood I had it drilled into and still not coming loose. I would always have to detach the hoses and use a hammer to knock it loose. I always hand tightened it as well.

I had a leak in a water line connector and they said to try to get it out and in the process it snapped. They were gonna send me a spare lid but could not find one. Now I have a useless reactor with no lid.

Are those ones you have easy to get loose, do they give you a hard time?
 
As usual, it looks great Dennis.
Thanks! :)

I bought 2 44Gal Brutes both with the wheel attachments, aren't they way over priced. To me $80 for a can and wheel rest is too much.

I recently diverted 2 lines away from my return like I said in the message I sent you. I was able to fit 2 1/2 threaded hose barbs, each with different size hose fitting because each reactor had a different hose size.

I see how you have yours on there to the pipe. How does that attach to the pipe. I have the 2 1/2 inch threads on my PVC. Are thos something I could screw into the 1/2 threads or is that only made to fit that gray piping.

I also had issues with my BRS Deluxe reactor never being able to unscrew it with the tool and it ripping the wood I had it drilled into and still not coming loose. I would always have to detach the hoses and use a hammer to knock it loose. I always hand tightened it as well.

I had a leak in a water line connector and they said to try to get it out and in the process it snapped. They were gonna send me a spare lid but could not find one. Now I have a useless reactor with no lid.

Are those ones you have easy to get loose, do they give you a hard time?

Ya, I already had the wheel set but 45 bucks for the can is a bit pricey. Better price than the water storage tanks though. And I have it half under my counter so it was too tall to use the wheel tray in the end.

From what I remember with the plumbing, i just found a 1" to 3/4" threaded coupling that I could screw a 3/4" john guest fitting into.

My reactors were easy to get open when empty. Haven't had to open them again yet. Just filled one with carbon yesterday. Having some flow issues though. Need to look into that. WTF is the red button for???? :dunno:
 
That red button is useless.

I used to think it was to let pressure out of the Reactor to make unscrewing it easier but that never made it easy. I looked under the cap and it is just a screw blocking a hole like on a gas can so maybe it is just a use pressure release.

Dude my reactor was only easy to open like the first 2 times and then after that it was hammer time. They were full but still how annoying. On the video that dude is like "It is so easy a Caveman can do it" but I was like f this.

I may just get something else.

I use the 2 little fishes for my GFO and it can do a larger tank and it is way easier to take out and do. I am sure there are plenty of people who have no issues with their BRS stuff but I do however.

WTF can't they just come out with clip on ones like the old jars of jam with the metal thing or how the Air filter covers in your car are or at least any car I have ever owned. I figure if my Denali or Maxima have them all cars still do.

Anyway that would be my next purchase if they made them.
 
Ya, saw that somewhere else. Thanks. :)
And I did check tonite, still easy to open. Will update over time if I run into issues.
What was annoying me is the sponges don't seem tight enough to hold the carbon up at the top so it just fell down to the bottom when i rotated the canister right side up. Makes me wonder what the point is. This seemed to work better in the small reactors for some reason. Maybe less weight from less carbon.

Anyway, the OCD in me had to update my info graphic. :mrgreen:

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It allows a tiny bit of air in so the pipe won't siphon or gurgle. Just google bean animal and there is a site that explains it all.

Sorry D just already here but explain away if you want.
 
It doesn't have anything to do with gurgling, but correct about the siphon.
The only difference between that drain and the one next to it is the red air line, which makes it an open channel instead of a siphon. That air line allows air in the pipe which prevents that drain from becoming a siphon like the middle one. The middle one is the drain that pulls the majority of the water since it is a full siphon and you only want a trickle going down the open channel. If the siphon was to clog, the water will rise in the overflow and go down the emergency drain (pipe on the left). If the water rises high enough the water level will reach the other end of the air line, cutting off the air supply which will turn the open channel into a siphon. So bean animal has two levels of safety.

Bean explains it real well here...
BeanAnimal's Bar and Grill - Silent and Fail-Safe Overflow System
 
I only put what the site said and it says gurgle look. I just want to put that I didn't make it up.;-) Unless I am reading it wrong and have the part mixed up with something else.

Because air is allowed in and the overall flow is fairly small (the siphon standpipe is handling the bulk of the flow), the standpipe will not siphon or gurgle. In other words, the small amount of excess flow that is not being handled by the Siphon (middle) standpipe quietly flows through the Open Channel (right) standpipe. Because the flow is very low, very little air makes its way to the sump.
 
Yes, it will not siphon or gurgle.
Like I said, there is zero difference between the two drains EXCEPT for the air line. If I plug the airline it still won't gurgle. But it will turn into a full siphon and completely drain the overflow, then both drains will start making loud sucking noises like when you finish sucking your soda up through a straw.
 
How silly. It's like when you plug your skimmers airline it overflows with water. Well not exactly but still.

When you first said you were doing this set-up I remember wondering why and now this is how I want to do mine except that I will have to wait till I can swap tanks one day.

I just keep thinking about how much extra room I would have without the 2 large overflows blocking the tank.
 
Dennis, another question. In your research, did you find any implementations of this system that didn't go through the wall but also didn't have 3 ugly pipes behind the tank? I was thinking maybe just create a fake wall for the 3 pieces to go through but I'd like to just route them someplace inconspicuous. Any ideas?
 
Yeah, you could just cut a hole and make like the back 1/8 of the tank inside the wall. Just make sure you protect your wall or it will get moldy and crappy.
 
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