200gal built in wall

I am Having serious issue with hair algee and I know what it is now. I was supose to of gotten good live rock but them asses sold me lace rock
 
flip777-albums-200gal-build-picture821-looks-good.jpg

Good choice of color
 
I am Having serious issue with hair algee and I know what it is now. I was supose to of gotten good live rock but them asses sold me lace rock

I don't think the lace rock is causing your problems. From the pictures it looks like you may have the start of some cyano bacteria as well. You need to have Bifferwine move this to the Tank Showcase and you'll get faster responses...

Do you have a sump? if so, install an algae scrubber. It's a DIY project. they're easy to make, cheap, work great and it'll remove all of your algae..Here's the link

https://www.livingreefs.com/mega-powerful-nitrate-and-phosphate-remover-diy-t16734.html

Also give us a list of every piece of equipment in your tank..We'll find out what's wrong with it very quickly rather than you struggling through it on your own.

Tap Water? or RO/DI?
Sump/ No sump?
skimmer?
Water parameters?
Powerheads? How many?
What are you feeding? flakes, frozen, etc?

Ok...I went back through your pics and see that you have a sump...Here are my first 2 things that I think are your problem..

1. I think you may be using tap water.
2. I don't think you have nearly enough flow in your tank. You need more water movement in there. Not enough or powerful enough powerheads.
3. I think you're also gonna need to lower those lights closer to the tank so that the light can make it to the corals....I have 250,400, 250 Metal Halides and I have to keep my lights closer than yours are, and my tank is only a 180g. Lower the light to where the top of the trim on the wall starts and that will help. Are there covers over those bulbs?
 
Last edited:
I'll move this to tank showcase... PRC is right. Tap water is usually a cause of algae problems. He is also right about the need for lots of water movement.
 
I don't think the lace rock is causing your problems. From the pictures it looks like you may have the start of some cyano bacteria as well. You need to have Bifferwine move this to the Tank Showcase and you'll get faster responses...

Do you have a sump? if so, install an algae scrubber. It's a DIY project. they're easy to make, cheap, work great and it'll remove all of your algae..Here's the link

https://www.livingreefs.com/mega-powerful-nitrate-and-phosphate-remover-diy-t16734.html

Also give us a list of every piece of equipment in your tank..We'll find out what's wrong with it very quickly rather than you struggling through it on your own.

Tap Water? or RO/DI?
Sump/ No sump?
skimmer?
Water parameters?
Powerheads? How many?
What are you feeding? flakes, frozen, etc?

Ok...I went back through your pics and see that you have a sump...Here are my first 2 things that I think are your problem..

1. I think you may be using tap water.
2. I don't think you have nearly enough flow in your tank. You need more water movement in there. Not enough or powerful enough powerheads.
3. I think you're also gonna need to lower those lights closer to the tank so that the light can make it to the corals....I have 250,400, 250 Metal Halides and I have to keep my lights closer than yours are, and my tank is only a 180g. Lower the light to where the top of the trim on the wall starts and that will help. Are there covers over those bulbs?

I will have to try an algae scrubber. I am using tap water but I have a 6 stage ro/di system. I have 2 1300gal. per hour power heads and it's over kill for my tank. My main pump is 1400gph and I have a 900gph for my skimmer. I have to make covers for my light bulbs so that the water wont shatter my bulbs. any suggestions
 
Last edited:
I'll move this to tank showcase... PRC is right. Tap water is usually a cause of algae problems. He is also right about the need for lots of water movement.

How much water movement should I have. I have 2 1300gph powerheads and it seems to much. My main pump is 1400gph and my pump for my skimmer is 900gph. I have a 6 stage ro/di system for my water use
 
I will have to try an algae scrubber. I am using tap water but I have a 6 stage ro/di system. I have 2 1300gal. per hour power heads and it's over kill for my tank. My main pump is 1400gph and I have a 900gph for my skimmer. I have to make covers for my light bulbs so that the water wont shatter my bulbs. any suggestions

The tap water is more than likely a large part of the problem...Once you start using the RO/DI it will take a little while but it'll clear up as long as there aren't other issues.....also using the algae scrubber will eliminate the algae, it'll take awhile for both of these things to take effect..(Algae scrubber takes about a month to take effect)

Try using alot of smaller powerheads (6-800gph)..I had the same problem as you..the big powerheads cause a hurricane in the tank, but they also leave deadspots with very little flow. For now, if you can pint one of those power heads at the front glass, so that it will create turbulence all the way across the front of the tank..You want to get it all the way to the sandbed without blowing the sand all over the tank.

In regard to covers...you want to use glass (tempered). Metal Halides will melt plexiglass.
 
For now, you can leave the lights off for 3-4 days. that can help clear up the algae and cyano.

How long are you currently leaving your lights on (average is 8-12 hrs)? after the 3-4 day "blackout" gradually start leaving the lights on longer and longer until you reach the tiem you want to have them on. Alot of people don't turn their tank lights on until noon, so they can enjoy them in the evening after work..but that's up to you. Using a timer for your lights is a great idea.

Doing a blackout for a few days won't have any harmful effects on your corals or fish.
 
Also, after your tank gets done cycling and you're ready to place fish (but not until then, because they'll die) get some herbivore fish, they'll eat the algae too.

Tangs and foxface are common herbivores. Tangs are reef safe, I have a foxface may nip at corals, although I've never had the problem. Tangs however can have their own issues, some of them are disease magnets so for your first tang get a very common easy to care for tang. Maybe a yellow, or sailfin

You can research fish here.Saltwater Fish: Marine Aquarium Fish for Saltwater Aquariums
 
For now, you can leave the lights off for 3-4 days. that can help clear up the algae and cyano.

How long are you currently leaving your lights on (average is 8-12 hrs)? after the 3-4 day "blackout" gradually start leaving the lights on longer and longer until you reach the tiem you want to have them on. Alot of people don't turn their tank lights on until noon, so they can enjoy them in the evening after work..but that's up to you. Using a timer for your lights is a great idea.

Doing a blackout for a few days won't have any harmful effects on your corals or fish.

My moon lights(purple & blue light) turn on 1 hour before my regular lights. My moons are on for 10 hours and my halide are on for 8 hours. I do have a timer
 
Also, after your tank gets done cycling and you're ready to place fish (but not until then, because they'll die) get some herbivore fish, they'll eat the algae too.

Tangs and foxface are common herbivores. Tangs are reef safe, I have a foxface may nip at corals, although I've never had the problem. Tangs however can have their own issues, some of them are disease magnets so for your first tang get a very common easy to care for tang. Maybe a yellow, or sailfin

You can research fish here.Saltwater Fish: Marine Aquarium Fish for Saltwater Aquariums

I have a lawnmower blenny, Kole tang, and sand goby. I have alot of snails, red and blue legged crabs, 6 emerald crabs plus all my coral
 
Oh..ok..I thought you were still cycling. Also, stay away from flake food. I'd turn off the lights for a few days. Build the algae scrubber, and then "hurry up and wait":D

Dude, send the pics of the Kole Tang pronto..We do love pics.:mrgreen:
 
Back
Top