For hyposalinity treatment you would have to slowly lower your tanks specific gravity to 1.011 to 1.012. This is normally done in a seperate tank to only the effected fish and for a period of three to four weeks. If that can not be done then it can be done in your main tank with out harm to the fish as long as the lowering of the salinity is done over a period of hours, or even better over a period of several days, instead of over a period of minutes.
Hi, I'm new
- Thread starter Australis
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Within two weeks or even faster with your higher temperatures, the whitespots will usually fall off and within a few day after that new parasites will leave those little white spots (cysts) and hunt for fish to attach to and feed off of. Hyposalinity will kill them. Plants, live corals and invertebrates such as crabs and such would not survive hyposalinity though, so they would have to be removed to treat the fish in the tank. Live sand and live rock can be left in the tank during hyposalinity treatments.
Hi thanks for the reply
The parasite is gone...no probs with those...
Only problem is with the "ich" i guess tats wat u guys call it...
It spread...
Wanna know if temps at 29 deg is ok with the fishes ?
I dont have corals and only have 1 cleaner shrimp which i dunno where it is
Shop guy said use medication costapur from sera or use ozonizer...
What do u think ? the latter is abit pricey though
The parasite is gone...no probs with those...
Only problem is with the "ich" i guess tats wat u guys call it...
It spread...
Wanna know if temps at 29 deg is ok with the fishes ?
I dont have corals and only have 1 cleaner shrimp which i dunno where it is
Shop guy said use medication costapur from sera or use ozonizer...
What do u think ? the latter is abit pricey though
yote
In Memoriam
If you plan on having coral and other inverts,then dont use any medications in the main tank.Not to mention,The meds will kill 90% of the pods and stuff in your live rock.
cumminz
Reefing newb
Garlic Anyone?
The parasites and the Ich are the same organism, just different stages of its development/life cycle. There are three stages to its life cycle. In simple terms: the parasite stage, the white spot stage, and the free swimming stage. Or parent, embryo and infant. The most susceptible stage to treatment is the free swimming/infant stage.
lightcs4
Loving to learn
I've read different figures on how low it needs to be in order to be effective. Some articles say under 1.012, others say to get between 1.008 and 1.010. I have mine between 1.009 and 1.011, depending on the time of day, due to evaporation. I try to keep it topped off a couple times a day to try to keep in consistent.
Er...
I think its pretty hard to keep adjusting the level... constantly tat is...
My tub is a lil big...and i'm working most of the time:helm2:
So is it ok if i get it to 1.010 and leave them there for a week or two ?
Only question is...can the fishes take it ?
A few of mine has turned over
I think its pretty hard to keep adjusting the level... constantly tat is...
My tub is a lil big...and i'm working most of the time:helm2:
So is it ok if i get it to 1.010 and leave them there for a week or two ?
Only question is...can the fishes take it ?
A few of mine has turned over
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The salnity adjustment should be done slowly over a period of hours or even a whole day. They can handle the lowered salinity just fine. There are vitamin/fatty acid supplements that would help and being near the ocean if live foods are available they would help even better than the vitamin/fatty acid supplements.
I'm not sure what u are talking about here. Care to elaborate on it a lil bit ?
:mrgreen:
Vitamin/fatty acid supplements would probably be sold under a different name over there, but they are basically preparations of food supplements that provide different amino acids and that are present in natural foods eaten by fish in the wild. The specific amino acids in marine life are not present in fresh water organisms, or at least not in appreciable levels. These amino acids are lost in some food preparations such as flake and pellet foods and degraded in some other foods. Live foods such as zooplankton that are eatten by fish in the wild ought to be available if you live near any coral reefs. It merely takes a fine mesh net to capture them. They are merely small marine orgaisms and infant of larger organisms. They are likely iused by local pet stores there as they would probably be cheaper than imported commercial foods. I have been assuming you are near the ocean. Assumptions commonly get me into trouble.
lightcs4
Loving to learn
The fish should be able to handle it as long as it is not done too quickly. I went from 1.024 to 1.010 in three days, a few hours at a time. I top off each morning and night to keep it there. You want to test each day to be certain it remains under 16 ppm or 1.012.
Keep an eye on your fish and take corrective action if they show signs of too much stress. Most fish will be OK. The hypo treatment should actually make it easier on them as they don't expend as much energy processing the saltwater. Search for articles on hyposalinity for details. I think there is one in the articles section on Living Reefs by John in the disease treatment section. Also realize that any corals, sharks, snails or stars won't survive hypo and will need to be moved to a different tank if treating in your DT.
You need to keep the tank at that level for at least four weeks after the last visible signs are gone, or six weeks total (I am doing eight, which may be overboard but should get rid of all parasites.
You can also raise the temp of the tank a bit to shorten the life cycle of the parasite. I keep mine at 80 (F), or about 27 Celsius.
Good luck.
(Edit: Just realized Fatman already responded - Hope the info was useful though)
Keep an eye on your fish and take corrective action if they show signs of too much stress. Most fish will be OK. The hypo treatment should actually make it easier on them as they don't expend as much energy processing the saltwater. Search for articles on hyposalinity for details. I think there is one in the articles section on Living Reefs by John in the disease treatment section. Also realize that any corals, sharks, snails or stars won't survive hypo and will need to be moved to a different tank if treating in your DT.
You need to keep the tank at that level for at least four weeks after the last visible signs are gone, or six weeks total (I am doing eight, which may be overboard but should get rid of all parasites.
You can also raise the temp of the tank a bit to shorten the life cycle of the parasite. I keep mine at 80 (F), or about 27 Celsius.
Good luck.
(Edit: Just realized Fatman already responded - Hope the info was useful though)
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Salinity level is now at 1.014
And temp is at 30C...i switch off the cooler fan
Saw the extreme hypo treatment conducted by the shop guy on a badly ich covered tang...was tossed into a tub with tetras in them :shock:
The Naso was beyond rescue and the shock was just too much.
Went back a few days later and the rest of the tangs were doing well :shock:
Guess the cyst were poppin like popcorns
And temp is at 30C...i switch off the cooler fan
Saw the extreme hypo treatment conducted by the shop guy on a badly ich covered tang...was tossed into a tub with tetras in them :shock:
The Naso was beyond rescue and the shock was just too much.
Went back a few days later and the rest of the tangs were doing well :shock:
Guess the cyst were poppin like popcorns
:bounce:Hyposalinity Treatment
Warnings and Precautions
The hyposalinity treatment only treats a very limited number of ciliated parasites. The most notable in this group is Marine Ich (Cryptocaryon irritans).
A hyposalinity treatment will kill: Pods, snails, crabs, invertebrates, corals, most marine algae, most organisms growing on live rock, and Marine Ich. This is why it is most often performed in a separate, bare bottom, quarantine tank.
Do not use other treatment methods (medication or chemical) in conjuction with hyposalinity treatments without knowing it is approved by the medicine manufacturer for use specifically during a hyposalinity treatment. When fish are in a hyposaline liquid, the effects of medicines and medications are often quite different. Some medications/chemicals become lethal, IE. copper. Never use copper in conjunction with a hyposalinity treatment.
pH Control
pH is difficult to control in a hyposaline solution because at this dilution, the buffer ability of the diluted saltwater is not good. Be prepared for this, by having buffers on hand.
If you mess up and the pH has lowered considerably (more than 0.2 pH units) then raise the pH slowly -- no more than 0.10 pH units per day. A large pH change can seriously harm a fish, especially a sick one.
Actual Hyposalinity Process
Lowering Salinity
Over a period of about 24 to 48 hours lower the specific through water removal and RO/DI or distilled water additions. Watch pH and temperature of the added water so as to always match that of the water being replaced. Lower the specific gravity to a reading of 1.008 to 1.009 specific gravity units. Maintain this specific gravity through out the full treatment period.
Maintenance
If the treatment tank has an active biological filter, don't necessarily assume it's working. When the salinity is lowered the bacteria sometimes temporaily hold off in their metabolism of ammonia and nitrites. Controlling water quality and especially pH can then be a challenge. Therefore check for ammonia, nitrites, and pH twice each day at the start, until readings are zero for ammonia and nitrites. Don't count on the pH to remain steady. It must be checked at least twice a day and if needed, adjusted.
Make water changes if needed to control organics, ammonia, nitrites, nitrates, etc.
Nutrition
The fish must be offered and gotten to eat throughout the process. The best foods available must be provided.
Salinity Control
If the tank water salinity is allowed to go up, the Marine Ich parasite will not be killed. If the tank water salinity goes below the target salinity, the fish are in danger.
Treatment Time
The fish is kept in hyposalinity 4 weeks after the last spot is seen. After the last spot disappears, the hyposalinity continues for another 4 weeks. If during that 4 weeks, if any spot is seen, the time/clock starts over. There must be a minimum of 4 solid weeks with no spots seen.
Raising Salinity
The raising of the specific gravity is very stressful on fish and this part must be done slowly. It should take 6 to 7 days to return the water to its normal salinity. Raise the specific gravity by about 0.003 specific gravity units or less, per day.
When the treatment time is over, there is no need to add back distilled water to compensate for water that has daily evaporated since ending treatment. When you go to raise the salinity, add small quantities of high specific gravity than normal mixed and aged salt water.
Final Period of Treatment
After the salinity is returned to normal, hold the fish in the treatment tank for another 4 weeks to verify it is cured. Look for spots every day, very closely. Observe the fish behavior, breathing rate, flashing (scratching) and look for any other Marine Ich symptoms. At the end of this time, the fish is cured/free of Marine Ich if no other symptoms are seen.
:^:
Warnings and Precautions
The hyposalinity treatment only treats a very limited number of ciliated parasites. The most notable in this group is Marine Ich (Cryptocaryon irritans).
A hyposalinity treatment will kill: Pods, snails, crabs, invertebrates, corals, most marine algae, most organisms growing on live rock, and Marine Ich. This is why it is most often performed in a separate, bare bottom, quarantine tank.
Do not use other treatment methods (medication or chemical) in conjuction with hyposalinity treatments without knowing it is approved by the medicine manufacturer for use specifically during a hyposalinity treatment. When fish are in a hyposaline liquid, the effects of medicines and medications are often quite different. Some medications/chemicals become lethal, IE. copper. Never use copper in conjunction with a hyposalinity treatment.
pH Control
pH is difficult to control in a hyposaline solution because at this dilution, the buffer ability of the diluted saltwater is not good. Be prepared for this, by having buffers on hand.
If you mess up and the pH has lowered considerably (more than 0.2 pH units) then raise the pH slowly -- no more than 0.10 pH units per day. A large pH change can seriously harm a fish, especially a sick one.
Actual Hyposalinity Process
Lowering Salinity
Over a period of about 24 to 48 hours lower the specific through water removal and RO/DI or distilled water additions. Watch pH and temperature of the added water so as to always match that of the water being replaced. Lower the specific gravity to a reading of 1.008 to 1.009 specific gravity units. Maintain this specific gravity through out the full treatment period.
Maintenance
If the treatment tank has an active biological filter, don't necessarily assume it's working. When the salinity is lowered the bacteria sometimes temporaily hold off in their metabolism of ammonia and nitrites. Controlling water quality and especially pH can then be a challenge. Therefore check for ammonia, nitrites, and pH twice each day at the start, until readings are zero for ammonia and nitrites. Don't count on the pH to remain steady. It must be checked at least twice a day and if needed, adjusted.
Make water changes if needed to control organics, ammonia, nitrites, nitrates, etc.
Nutrition
The fish must be offered and gotten to eat throughout the process. The best foods available must be provided.
Salinity Control
If the tank water salinity is allowed to go up, the Marine Ich parasite will not be killed. If the tank water salinity goes below the target salinity, the fish are in danger.
Treatment Time
The fish is kept in hyposalinity 4 weeks after the last spot is seen. After the last spot disappears, the hyposalinity continues for another 4 weeks. If during that 4 weeks, if any spot is seen, the time/clock starts over. There must be a minimum of 4 solid weeks with no spots seen.
Raising Salinity
The raising of the specific gravity is very stressful on fish and this part must be done slowly. It should take 6 to 7 days to return the water to its normal salinity. Raise the specific gravity by about 0.003 specific gravity units or less, per day.
When the treatment time is over, there is no need to add back distilled water to compensate for water that has daily evaporated since ending treatment. When you go to raise the salinity, add small quantities of high specific gravity than normal mixed and aged salt water.
Final Period of Treatment
After the salinity is returned to normal, hold the fish in the treatment tank for another 4 weeks to verify it is cured. Look for spots every day, very closely. Observe the fish behavior, breathing rate, flashing (scratching) and look for any other Marine Ich symptoms. At the end of this time, the fish is cured/free of Marine Ich if no other symptoms are seen.
:^:
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Rift lake salt is used for Tanganyikan cichlid tank for higher pH.
On another note, would a 3ft tank inside the hall coz serious oxidization problem for the house ?
I have a spare tank...and i tot of using it to kick up a temp tank for a group of moorish idols while they are still available...they are eating well and very healthy...:question:
On another note, would a 3ft tank inside the hall coz serious oxidization problem for the house ?
I have a spare tank...and i tot of using it to kick up a temp tank for a group of moorish idols while they are still available...they are eating well and very healthy...:question:
I am unsure of what your asking. Do you mean will the water evaporation inside the house cause problems. If you have exposed metal such as exposed metal roofing or something metal such as that It would depend on the surface area of the tank how much evaporation there would be. I would think that the area in which you live is pretty humid so the evaporation from the tank will be pretty little in amount and therefore not a problem. Air that is already moisture laden will not accept much moisture from your tanks water surface.
